yes someone else said the same thing today when they were looking at it with me...i dont know why i left those exposed, just an oversight. thx for noticing that.
heres what it looks like on... finally got it on.. i think it looks pretty good.
question - am I supposed to be able to take it and spin it by myself right now? because i tried to grab hold of the round brake think and spin and it kinda wants to but not really. im wondering if when i put the...
i need a second hand to get the body on because i need to hold those four things out to get the motor in place...so
i havnt checked that... maybe that will solve it?
after taking apart my winch to rebuild with the kit, I am now putting it back together. Everything is going per norm until I go to put the motor back into the upper housing...
basically when i stick it through the bearing hole and then put the pinion spacer and lock block on ... there is some...
I like my quick disconnects idea and im sticking with it because ultimately i dont want it pulling from the battery while its not in use. therefore i will always have it disconnected and then just connedct away when i want or need to use
i plan on disconnecting the winch from the battery when not needed for use. Will use a Hyclatt quick disconnect for this that I got off Amazon. Whenever i need to use it (winch) i just get out, open hood connect the quick disconnect and bam winch has power..that was my plan...
also quick question on the diagram language - what does it mean by "Isolator Switch" ? in between the positive Battery terminal and the positive terminal on the albright ?
like a quick disconnect? and if it doesnt mean quick disconnect - i was planning on putting one in - would that suffice as...
well one of the videos i watched on youtub, the person mentioned that...which is how i learned of it (the brake thingy i mentioned with regard to proper assembly
with regards to wiring the switch portion specifically...I'm trying to wire up with my old socket that has the metal bezel and 3 wires coming out for the old solenoid set-up.
obviously i can reuse this but first this is just for confirmation:
the diagram shows 2 wires coming in the switch...
weird though because I think my battery cables are 4 awg so Im trying to reconcile that in my head ... maybe I should upgrade to 2 awg on my main battery cable wire. glad someone made me think about that because now im going to confirm that...
I came across a diagram that specified 2AWG so I was basically confirming that because its off the internet and s***is wrong online all the time. 2AWG sounds right though to be honest so 2 gauge it is
so I got my new DC88 with the correct 3 terminal portion for the switch wiring...not sure what other application the other one was for (maybe ATV or something - whatever they didn't specify on ad)
so here it is - now for the wiring.....I labeled for dummy proofing