Yeah. That fiberglass looks great. Unfortunately, I would have had to remove my rear AC system to make that work.
Edit: with some more time, I could maybe find a way to make it work on the side I did my install. Be a bit of a pain with the gas being on ver there though.
IMO, it depends on the car. I want a decent sound system in this. I’ve got an older Dodge Viper that I would never put a subwoofer in. The engine noise is my sound system in that one.
Alrighty. I got her installed. I’ll be going back and putting dynamat all over every panel in the vehicle, but here’s pics of the finished product so ya’ll can see what it looks like. The sub came with a template for the hole size and where to drill from screws. First, I marked and cut the hole...
Well, after I started removing stuff to run my speaker wire, I noticed that, with a little cutting, I should have some room behind the panel on the opposite side. I had to remove the plastic piece that holds the tool kit, and I’ll have to cut into some metal, but I think this is a much better...
Spray foam should help alleviate any rattle. Great points about the linkage and wiring. I’m going to take that advice. I’m going to build a protective shield around the linkage, and I’ll re-run the electrical wiring through some conduit for potential future issues.
No questions here. I’ve read a few threads here with lots of opinions. I’m gonna be cutting into my tailgate tomorrow morning to get it installed.
I ordered a 10” shallow mount Kenwood subwoofer and a Kenwood amp to push it. The reason I’m not installing it in the factory location because I...