This guy is referenced in other threads on the topic. I know there is another vendor who makes them but I cant recall the name.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115736622369?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dTzZPFZlSu-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5o8g6umJQOW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Small update:
I refreshed a mud member’s wiper unit recently and noticed his brush holder had melted. The damage was minimal enough that I figured I could repair it rather than trash the whole holder. I ended up using moldavle epoxy to reform the channel around the new brush. Worked very well...
Skipped a few steps, but essentially I added more epoxy, sanded, applied a very small amount of filler, sanded, primed.
Finished product (minus top coat and clear)
After that, mixed up epoxy, allowed it to harden, then sanded smooth. The epoxy itself feathers pretty well, almost as well as the body filler I use. Here it is filled in and first pass sanded.
Update time!
Currently working on two units for @gmac1
Wanted to post an issue I ran into. Sometimes when I work on these the crappy pot metal cracks. This is one of the driver's side drive units that cracked as I was trying to bend it back into shape.
My solution was to first dig out some...
Hard to tell with that angle. I would need a close up profile shot of the switch.
Does the motor work at all? I would check those butt splices and any solder points.
I don’t have a set value, but you would set them such that the middle arm does not make contact with the upper arm when the plunger is at its lowest point. Each of the copper arms should have a fiber insulator plate between them. If you want to post pictures of your set up, feel free and I can...
Glad to hear that!
PB blaster. Shoot some down into the sheath and give it time. Might want to lightly bend the entire thing gently to loosen rust.
I also put the rod in a vise and GENTLY twisted the internal rod a little.
You may have to keep applying PB blaster, as there isn’t must room for...