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  1. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    You could use: Carb cleaner spray (super toxic nasty stuff - geezus) Starting fluid spray (mostly ether - don’t breathe that s*** either) Propane (least hazardous of the choices). If there’s a vacuum leak somewhere and you direct your flammable fluid/gas into the leaking spot, the engine RPMs...
  2. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    There’s lots out there. The one linked below seemed to work fine for me. Strobe light is pretty bright. I used to have a Snap-On timing light (that stopped working) but I liked the Innova timing light better. You can see RPMs too. https://www.innova.com/products/digital-timing-light-3568a
  3. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    Is the EGR system functioning correctly? Octane 87 or 89 gas? (I used 89). On the 2F, (at least mine anyway) I was so convinced with my newly rebuilt head that the engine was pinging while driving hard up a long hill - that I took it to a speed shop with a dyno to verify. After a lot of testing...
  4. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    The manual says with air cleaner installed for non USA. (With a clean filter of course). But the newest 2F manual doesn’t specify for USA— so it probably doesn’t matter.
  5. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    I can’t find the carbed 3F manual for some reason — but I found an unusual 1991 2F manual that has lean drop instructions too. Attached is the page describing lean drop tuning and below is a link to the whole manual: http://content.cruisermanuals.com/qfaxu/muhy/#p=2 I don’t think you can...
  6. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    The idle mixture screw is a needle valve controlling the flow of gasoline. If less fuel is allowed to flow, the resulting A/F mixture will have less fuel in it, so it would be leaner. If more fuel is let in, the A/F mixture becomes richer. I’ll see if I can dig up the 3F manual…
  7. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    On the next model of the F engine, the carbureted 3F that was available in other countries, there is no mention anywhere in the Toyota 3F engine manual of using the Lean Drop method to tune the carburetor at idle. The carburetor on the 3F engine has an idle mixture screw like our 2F, but Toyota...
  8. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    Base timing at idle is just a starting point for the entire RPM range the engine is capable of running at. The 2F timing advance is really simple using springs and weights and a vacuum diaphragm. The timing isn’t perfect at idle at stock 7° because idle isn’t quite as important as where the...
  9. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    Low vacuum reading is a vacuum leak somewhere which leans out the A/F mixture which can create an overly hot combustion, which can lead to overheating the exhaust valves, which can warp, which will cause a compression leak, which will cause loss of compression, which equals loss of power...
  10. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    You’d set an Advance timing light to 9° to advance the spark two more degrees from seven. The RPMs increase when the timing advances, so you can hear if you’re rotating the distributor the way you want. A dumb regular ole timing light is not adjustable, so it flashes when it detects a pulse...
  11. OSS

    Timing. Degree or vacuum? Or both

    I wouldn’t use that vacuum gauge as a guide to set timing. Get yourself an Advance timing light if you don’t have one of those already and set the timing straight on the 7° BTDC dot on the flywheel at idle — then take the engine for a test drive. Hard acceleration, full throttle, 3/4 throttle...
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