As @baldilocks said above, that'll work, as long as the transmission is in park.
FWIW, the ECU/TCU has a temp sensor in the circuit somewhere:
It should be possible to monitor it via OBDII/Techstream, at least for the '95-'97 models.
@iansplatinum,
Another thought just occurred to me, that hasn't been explored here. What are your transmission temperatures? I'm just wondering if a hotter than "normal" transmission would raise the radiator temperature enough to be visible by the ECU, since the tranmission cooler lines run...
@iansplatinum
I just completed the replacement of every cooling component and now I've got two 80s running 190.4°F consistently. I didn't have the time (or the coolant) to replace the parts one at a time to see if there was one culprit, or the problem was a combination of problem children...
FWIW, I don't think you're chasing a non-issue.
Timing's the last thing on my list, too. The cool '95 80 I have runs 190°F all day, every day; the fenders and hood get warm, but definitely not hot. The '95 problem child gets so hot you'll get a 1st degree burn leaning on the driver's side...
When your measurements indicate you have high engine temperatures, how hot are the fenders and hood? Are they warm to teh touch, or so hot you can't keep your hand on them?
You've done everything I've done and neither of us is having any success. As I stated earlier, my heating problem is very likely the source of the earlier blown headgasket. I inherited a CSF all metal radiator, which I took to a local shop (many thanks to Terry at The Cooling Center) who...
I have some 10k cSt silicone on the way. I'm going to add that to the new thermostat and see if that'll bring to operating temps in line with the JAN 95 80 in the driveway.
@iansplatinum I apologize for highjacking your thread. The silicone I ordered is:
fleabay was the only source I could...
UPDATE:
The JUL'95 80 is running within the acceptable temp range. The existing thermostat was open 7 -mm (of the required 10-mm) at 203°F. Although it did start to open earlier than the new one, it would not fully open at HOT.
I could have bet that it was OK, if you had put it in my hand...
No, both of mine are OE. If I want the sensor reading, I plug in my OBDII reader. That's where I got my numbers. Which is why I haven't bothered to mod my gauge...of course, when my '94 comes home (from Dallas, BTW), that'll be on the list.
I was just about to ask if you had adjusted the temp gauge. According to conventional wisdom, the US OE gauge won't move until it's too late for you to react; i.e., it'll read in the middle of the range at 176° just as well as 210°.
Granted, I don't drive in AZ, now, but I have and you are correct, that's a different world. Big D is trying to be them this week.
Also, my temp is steady after 2-3 minutes from cold, no matter the vehicle/engine speed or load.
I'd pull and check the thermostat functionally. I doubt it has failed due to the construction, but it, or the galley, may have some trash in it. You won't know for sure until you do, and it is an FSM function check for this condition. I can't recommend other than OEM thermostats; I've never...