On my "rust free" doors the rust went up on the inside of the structure/skin at least an inch, more than you could see by just folding up the seam. Keep posting pics.
Jfyi, I tried those low melt solder fittings and had issues with them over a year or so. The solder doesn't hold up, especially the blue and yellow colored ones. Had to take them all out and properly solder the connections.
That square-ended leaf is an add-a-leaf if I were to venture a guess. Toyota leaves are all tapered. That tells me that someone had that pack apart and reconfigured it. No clue why they didn't do the other side, but I'd get it out of there.
It's been a month, how are you not going to tell us what you did with the brakes?
You don't need to glue the windshield in place. Use Wagongear's window welting and you won't have any leaks.
http://wagongear.com/shop/window-welt/
When you replace the MC, you need to adjust the clevis that's on the pushrod, that connects to the pedal. This needs to be done, even if your new MC comes with a clevis. So, if you didn't do any adjustment when you installed the MC, that's something that needs to be at least checked.
Good thing to check, but if the master cylinder pushrod was adjusted too tight, the brakes would never release.
Again, I would avoid rebuilding calipers, and just buy new ones.
That's a good point too. Wheel bearings would have been affected by the crazy heat, so it'd be a good thing to check.
Modified my recommendations above.
You asked for it.
I would not trust cheap autozone castings with internals other than what they came with. Unless they say aisin on them, they're not toyota calipers that were remanufactured. If they were bad out of the box, why didn't you take them back and get another set? To be clear, I...