I don't remember the specific settings. Quarter turn away from runaway on the full power screw, afc tension tight but not nuts, basically enough so it wouldn't smoke before spool.
I could hit 37# running hot and heavy with that as a single, but that's outside the compressor map. Boost fooler...
I'm stoked for you that you got a super hx30! It's a great turbo. Is that air filter setup new for you or did you have that open element style with your old turbo?
Edit: also I have a few different manifolds here if you want pics of some different options. I'm running a chopped 24v manifold...
What would you rather see, the actual instantaneous pressure reading, or a "rolling average"?
The pressure will go up around 18ish during high rpm decel. Engine spinning fast, so the pump is working hard, but the injection pump isn't consuming any fuel. Hasn't been a problem for me yet, *knock...
The oscillating fuel gauge is because fuel pressure oscillates in the head. The piston lift pump adds pressure at a rate dictated by the cam. The injection pump either consumes it, or it's returned through the return regulator. My digital gauge oscillates a bit, no biggie. Take out the valve...
For another datapoint, my Super HX30w hits ~25psi before 2000rpm under load, and maxes out around 38psi around 3500rpm if running hot (1400*+) with a load. That's with stock (rebuilt) 4bt injectors, dynamic timing advance, #2 fuel pin, timing barely bumped, low pressure piston lift pump (15psi...
Well, how did you wire the cluster lights and dimmer? Need to know specific wire colors you tapped into in the factory harness so I can help. I covered how I did it in my Moonshine thread, and it's been working well.
Really should attach that connector to the diff. It bouncing around will break the wire that goes into the diff eventually.
Flex should be where the brake lines are, not at the diff penetration point.
I know that this is your thread, and do with it what you wish, but I'm not subscribed to look at pictures of your well jobs. I'm subscribed to learn about what you're doing with your FJ60.
Start another thread in chit-chat and put all your well projects there. It's interesting, just not at...
Wait a tick. You capped off all of the fuel tank vents, except for the filler neck vent? That's not how I interpreted your other post. Interesting that you don't have an issue with tank vacuum, I would expect that to be an issue for sure. I was referring to the small maybe 3/16" vents, and i...
I originally had them capped, all but the necessary filler neck vent and one to provide a vent, but continually had issues with fuel being pushed out of the somewhat short vent line on hot days. You know, fill up at night on the way home, next day when it's hot fuel is pushed out of the vent...
Point is you don't need to completely drain the fuel tank to remove the fuel neck.
Even if you did, there would be very little air that actually gets in the lines. As an example, I had to replace the aluminum fuel lines in my truck with steel fuel lines, because the AL failed after about 5...
The fill port is not in the bottom of the tank. Couldn't be, otherwise you wouldn't be able to fill it :P
IMHO, a manual air shutoff is not worth the cost. 5th gear and stall it. We're not driving 7.3l diesels, we're driving 3.9l diesels. Between your brakes and 5th gear, you should be...