oh yeah, the OME springs are greasable, and I agree, a little grease definitely helps immediately, but after a month or two of driving or driving in very wet conditions, the dreaded clunk returns......
-db-
I didn't pop for the new OEM part either - talk about cardiac failure! Instead, went with a rebuilt unit from www.cruiserparts.net. At their prices, I figured I could replace the box about 5 times for the price of a new one :D
As an added bonus, there was no core charge and I still have my...
Heads up on the Simple Green: it contains a meta-silicate (think desiccant, like the little packages that ship with electronics) that by it's structural nature, attracts and binds H2O molecules to itself. When applied to joints or mated surfaces, the residual residue left behind after rinsing...
Sounds like a decent deal. All depends on what part of the country you're in: '60's that clean in the Pacific Northwest have been going for a lot more than that recently.
-dogboy- '87 FJ60
Just curious....my older OME front springs are doing exactly the same thing and driving me f#%$in' crazy! Turn, clunk, turn, clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk....
Replacing the P/S gear box, TRE's, and rebuilding the front axle including knuckles all helped and now I'm just down to that damn leaf...
Check the primary ground wire on your battery/ignition system - there should be a wire lead that comes off of your negative battery terminal and grounds out on the body work or frame somewhere under your hood. Also check the condition and connection of the negative & positive battery cables...
Zero Rust is an easy application and covers well. Used it extensively on my rear cross members and frame last summer and was very pleased with the ease of use. Appears to have held up well with our wet Oregon winter too. So far so good :)
I use it now as my go-to product for quick touch ups on...
nice rear seat leg room.....if you're a double amputee from the knee down :slap:
you know, as nice of a job as they do down there at TLC, sometimes I think they are smoking crack: $86,000.00?????? :doh: you've got to be kidding me!! considering a brand spanking new 100 series truck with...
OEM is probably the best call on that front. Consider how long the originals have lasted thus far. There is some speculation regarding the quality and longevity of the aftermarket parts, and from my experience, I have yet to see an aftermarket part that is comparable to Toyota in regards to...
oh yeah....now that's what I'm talkin' 'bout! looks good! nice job :)
your back end will definately drop after some use and the ride will soften as well, just give it a chance to break in...
-dogboy- '87 FJ60
NOT DONE YET!? :o.....well in that case, don't forget the auto-pilot, a live king cobra alarm system with mongoose reset feature, the Kohler double basin kitchen sink, and a geisha girl for good measure :flipoff2:
Seriously HZJ-60_GUY, that is one SICK rig already :D
Me likey the 1-HZT...
Try using some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster instead of the WD-40 for starters, then you can try a couple of things. If you have a small, narrow headed cold chisel, you can try and back the broken bolt out of the hole by placing the tip of it on any exposed/protruding threads and tapping it gently...
It will settle with a few weeks of use. Most new spring packs need a bit of time being subjected to the vehicle's weight load to break in and reach their normal ride height. Flexing the suspension over some uneven terrain will also help, just retorque all of the parts afterwards and periodically...
YES!!!!! VICTORY IS MINE!
one 14" pipe wrench, a can of Liquid Wrench, and a few "new" words later and the old TRE's came off with nothing less than a full 200 lbs. of body weight applied to the wrench end...capital suggestion on that tool, without which, I'd still be out in the shop cursing ;)...
YES!!!!! VICTORY IS MINE!
one 14" pipe wrench, a can of Liquid Wrench, and a few "new" words later and the old TRE's came off with nothing less than a full 200 lbs. of body weight applied to the wrench end...capital suggestion on that tool, without which, I'd still be out in the shop cursing ;)...
excellent! baby's on board now....many thanks!:cheers:
now if I can only keep the tie rod from rotating in the vise (my biggest problem to date, save the seizing) I'll be all set - "blue torque" doesn't seem to be tight enough ???
this board ROCKS!!!
-dogboy- '87 FJ60
Hey Klunky Chris,
can you elaborate on this technique a bit? you lost me a bit on the placement of the looooong pipe...are you sliding it over the TRE itself with the connecting rod secured in the vise, or do you have the TRE secured in the vise with the looooong pipe going where??? Sounds like...