Best shop tool: compressor (followed by impact wrench & sockets). It's not that I lay awake nights pining for it before I got one, but I couldn't believe how much easier so many things got once I had it.
Close second: hydraulic floor jack.
HTH. Have fun!
Why I love my 2F
If I were an engineer (or just more mechanically capable) I'd probably have more real appreciation for contemporary engine technology. But what I like most about the 2F (and most everything else about Land Cruisers for that matter) is that it's simple enough for me to...
One of the plugs in question connects the brake warning switches on the master cylinder to the brake warning light below the dash ... which is also missing. Not a biggie in itself, but more additions to the list of things that aren't quite right.
Of more potential concern is that the motor has...
Air Cleaner Intake Hose
3" Shop-vac hose, connected to the air cleaner housing with a rubber pipe connector & hose clamps. I even used a shop vac attachment for the air horn. Here's a pic. Less than $20 as I recall. HTH
Need Xfer shift shaft, shifter, & linkage, too
In addition to the input gear and bearing mentioned by lcwizard, you'll need the longer shift shaft from a "4-speed" case (#17 in the pic below), as well as the shifter (#2), guide (#3), and linkage (everything else).
HTH, and good luck!
Debris partialy clogging fuel pickup
I had a nearly identical problem. Finally solved it by blowing compressed air through the fuel line back through the tank. My theory was that debris partially obstructing the fuel pickup in the tank would allow enough fuel to pass to meet demand only up to...
Check parking brake drum, too
If one of the bolts holding the parking brake backing plate to the t-case works loose it'll bounce around in the parking brake drum at low speed (at higher speed it gets wedged against the drum and creates interesting grooves). Doesn't explain the whine, but worth...
I'm betting you got the wrong cylinder ...
The wheel cylinder with the bleed nipple will have a different fitting than the others (see pic below). So if your odd cylinder looks like the one on the left take it back and get the right one.
While you're at it, double-check that the other three...
Anybody know where I can get 4* caster shims in steel?
My rear pinion angle is off by about that much and I figure welding shims to the spring perches will be a whole lot easier than rotating the perches themselves.
I've searched here and come up empty, and the only shims I can find from...
... here's a pic
What Texx said, except - as you can see - you don't have to remove any of the hardware (I took this pic when I was refurbishing my hard doors 'cause I'm so spatially challenged I knew I'd never figure out how to get the glass back in) HTH.
This was not my experience on my SOA 40. Even with trac. bars I was bending (fortunately never actually broke) driver's side rear springs - these were original springs.
When I started looking for aftermarket springs, Alcan was the only one who would provide springs with no lift. They were...
#145 still fit with headers?
Any body know if this piece fits with headers. My 40's never had one since I've owned it but maybe the headers are why. Thought I'd ask before going to the trouble of looking for one. Thanks!
Short answer: No
Longer front shackles effectively rotate the axle forward, thereby changing the caster angle. Shims return the axle rotation - and therefore caster - to their proper places. So you shouldn't need shims with standard-length shackles. HTH.
You need side gear thrust washers ... maybe
There are thrust washers for the spider gears (replaced by the locker) as well as side gears, and it's the latter that can be worn and lead to locker unhappiness if the clearance isn't within spec. The installation instructions explain how to check...
See if this helps ...
See my entry in this thread ... the pic in it shows how the e-brake cable in my 4/76 runs. Basically, the mounting plate for the gas pedal pivot stands out from the floor about a cm or so, and the e-brake cable goes behind it. Below the floor, the e-brake cable and the...
X2 on the jack under the 3rd. If that doesn't get it, try reattaching the drive shaft and using it as a lever to break the 3rd loose. This has worked for me before when nothing else did. Good luck!
Alfred
Another simple thing to check
Even before you start thinking about replacing U-joints, be sure your drive shaft is in phase (i.e. the yoke ears line up with each other).
Nice looking rig, too!
Cheers,
Alfred
Excellent work!
This is something I've thought about, but never really pursued. How well yours turned out has got me thinking about it again more seriously. Would love to see any other pics you have - especially close-ups and in-progress shots. Again, great job!
Cheers,
Alfred