It’s a switched ground system. Opposite of many cars. Not that hard to troubleshoot. Get yourself a cheap multimeter with a continuity function. As long as you have 12v+ coming into the connector, you should be able to jump-ground the circuit to some clean frame or body metal. If that lights up...
Still available. I see it in the Classifieds For Sale - Seattle Area: 1988 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seattle-area-1988-toyota-land-cruiser-fj62.1282802/
Not sure which parts you’re finding expensive. I’ve actually found the opposite to be true with 60s, especially once you figure out the interchange hacks with other Toyota trucks. There’s a great thread here about replacement 4wd solenoid switches, for example.
But even when I find a $$$ part...
Yep, sounds about right. The Subie doesn’t attract magnificently bearded, microbrew IPA swilling, sustainable flannel wearing Ballard Lumbersexuals quite like a vintage Land Cruiser, but hey, that gets old fast.
Well, it’s that time. I’ve put my 62 up for sale. It’s in the classifieds here as well as local Craigslist. Figured I’d give my fellow ‘Mudders and locals a shot before BaT. You guys have been great. Literally, every single issue I thought I had, turned out to be a manageable maintenance item...
Fluid levels look good so far, I think the leak looked worse than it is because it had gotten blown all over the underside. After a thorough degreasing and pressure wash, I’m seeing this at the bell housing union
Apparently I’ve got a coolant leak too 🤬. Problem gotta snug up the hoses I just...
Good point about the RMS. Mixed up my fluids. My nose tells me the reddish stuff under the truck is ATF. Isn’t there a seal at the torque converter that can cause seepage at the bell housing if it fails?
My 62 has always marked its territory with a couple drops from the bell housing to engine union when parked for a while. 226k on original mechanicals, all stock.
I dried things up a few years ago with new pan gaskets, but recently I noticed a significant increase in leaking. There’s now so much...
Yep, figured that out this morning. Pulled the key cylinder out of the ignition switch and then pulled the core out of the key cylinder. The core was really dirty and gritty - probably causing some rotational resistance in the cylinder. Got it nice and smoothly turning after some cleaning and...
My FSM has an entire section on troubleshooting and rebuilding your starter. While I love that it’s possible, a whole reman’d AC Delco starter is only about $100. Do people bother fixing them? Are parts even available?
Also, if I wanted to replace my sticky ignition switch, does that involve a...
My DIY solution at the top of the thread still works great about a year later. If you don’t want to deal with swapping the pigtail like I did, looks like @ToyotaMatt can sell you a complete assembly.
On cold starts, once the engine is running and I release the key after the usual couple of seconds, I can hear what sounds like the starter continuing to run. This lasts 2-3 seconds and then the starter shuts off. Happens consistently when cold, 50/50 when warm.
I’m 99% sure it’s the starter...
Hey, just want to say thanks to the hive mind here. It’s rare for me to get a faulty sensor out of the box, but after swapping in a new one, the gauge sits perfectly at 50% fully warmed up. I did a triple flush on the system with distilled water and radiator cleaner until it ran clear, then new...
I’m ahead of you. Swapped out the Beck Arnley I bought on Amazon with whatever my local O’Reilly carries, as an experiment. Temp now sits at exactly the gauge midpoint at 175F on the tsat housing. 99% this was a sender issue.
I destroyed the old sender trying to unscrew it (was probably...