My 96 TLC with 250k miles is leaking at the power steering pump. I assume it is not the large o-ring, as that would be leaking engine oil. If the hoses are not leaking, how would the metal body be leaking??
The back hatch on my 96 TLC would not open. I crawled inside and removed the two screws to the back handle and removed it the the plastic piece around the lock. I pulled on the lever and opened the hatch. I then removed the entire plastic trim piece at the bottom of the hatch by pulling it...
I am certain it is engine oil, not atf
I readily admit it appears to be leaking from the power steering pump, but the oil is dark and not smelly or red like ATF. I will check to see if there is any leakage from the distributor and then pressure wash the engine to see if Dan the Man is indeed...
I have an engine oil leak that appears to drip off the back of the power steering pump. It is not leaking from the oil filter and it is not power steering fluid. What is above the power steering pump that could leak engine oil??
Thanks
ok to change just trunnion bearings??
I want to change out the trunnion bearings to see if it fixes the wheel rocking. Can these be changed out without doing a whole front end birf job? If so, how do you do it? Thanks.
My 96 TLC w/230k miles, the passenger and drivers side wheel when lifted off the ground with a new aluminum jack for Christmas rocks at 12 and 6 o'clock and not at 3 and 9. I searched and it appears the trunnion? knuckle? bearing would cause rocking at 12 and 6. What is the this bearing...
My drivers side rear window only opens from the switch located at the rear window. Every once in awhile, if you open and close the rear window from the rear seat switch, the window will operate from the front drivers side switch, but not reliably. I have taken both the front and rear switch...
Solved, fusible link bad connectors
I finally solved my intermittent no start condition. I determined the no start would occur when the fuel pump was not running so I suspected a worn out pump with 225k miles. I found that the fusible link may have been replaced in the past and put together...
intermittent no start, hotwire fuel pump
I have a 96 TLC with 225k miles. I have had an intermittent no start issue lately. I have not had any fuses blow. Each time it has not started, I jumper a wire from the battery to the connector at the fuel pump resistor (which is located near the air...
I have had an intermittent no start condition twice now, but since I was not home was not able to troubleshoot whether it was spark or fuel. Of course it started right up when I got home.
Temporarily I have bypassed the fuel pump resistor to ensure the fuel pump gets the most voltage...
My wife called last night and said she turned the high beams on and then all the lights went out, including the low beams. I was thinking it was the fuses or relay.
Looked at it this morning and all four headlight bulbs are burned out. I know I had the low beams and high beams on the last...
R12 into R134, incompatible oil and dessicant
It is not a good idea to put R12 into an R134 system due to the fact that the PAG oil and dessicant in the drier are imcompatible with r12. If you replace the drier and oil, then it may be ok. I know the drier has different part numbers for R12...
has not happened again, suspect relays
It has not happened again. I pulled the ECU relay and ECU fuse and reset them. Where is the fuel pump relay, I did not see a relay box on the firewall as shown in the FSM pdf files? I am guessing at this point it was one of the relays. It was quite hot...
I noticed this morning that it took about 1 second later than normal to catch and start. The battery is new and turns over quickly. Then this afternoon it cranked and cranked and would not start. I opened the hood and looked around and did not see anything. Then it started next time.
Do...