Thanks for the info in this thread. I got the dash lights and buzzer, hit the pump and it turned on, lights and buzzer turned off. A few days later the same thing happened again, so I spent the $1500 for a whole master cylinder assembly and changed it out. It was very easy and I didn’t remove...
I just picked one of those up today, but the automotive terminals not the threaded terminals.
Interstate 31P-AGM7’s have only been lasting me a year, and they (interstate) are refusing to replace my 1 year old battery because it was a replacement for the last 1 year old battery that crapped...
I guess you’ve never worked on a truck with rust. And in my case, no matter what I did, the shock would still spin. And 2 1.5” holes that are now primed and sealed up, is not a big deal.
I couldn’t get mine loose with a wrench and strap wrench. The shock would still spin, so I did the hole saw method. Worked great. I used these and some rv silicone sealant to close up the holes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076FFXP4Q?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
So I repeated the process again yesterday and hosed the engine down real good afterwards to hopefully wash off all the chemicals. Took it for a drive and it started running real rough, got it home, parked it to hopefully let any water dry off. Took it for a test ride a few hours later and it was...
I pulled the engine cover and skid plate yesterday and tried to see what all had oil on it. The valve cover bolts were pretty loose, so I snugged them up and just checked around to see if any other bolts were loose anywhere. Then I sprayed it all down with degreaser and a can of brake parts...
Thanks for the reply. Timing belt was replaced before my ownership, approx 70k miles ago. I’m planning on doing it again in another 10-20k, so I guess if that is the leak, hopefully it can wait until then.
I will check the other things you mentioned.
Hey everyone, I’m working on figuring out an oil leak. After reading some comments on here I’ve decided I’ll degrease everything and see if I can find where it starts, and I’ll check the intake manifold bolts, but I think I’ve done that before.
Anyway, I have oil on the heads of these 2 bolts...
Anyone know if there’s a different code for 2006? I have TFT but no numerical reading…
Edit: had to send it out for a software update. Works great now.
I know it’s an old thread, and it doesn’t seem like anyone has found a solution, but add me to the list of non working 6 disc cd changers.
It shuffles through every time I start the truck, and every so often I’ll load some cds to see if it wants to work, but the screen never seems to know that...
Hey guys, I have a 100 series with slee group 31 battery tray with the stainless extensions on the lead battery clamps.
I had a problem one time where it wouldn’t start, hooked up jumper cables and still wouldn’t start. Checked voltage on the battery and then on the lead clamp, then the...
I just finally replaced my tees and hoses yesterday. I found a topside creeper on fb marketplace and that definitely helped on this job.
All in all it wouldn’t be a bad job, except I bought the hoses, tees, and clamps from Wits End, and the kit includes 12 of the same size clamp. I believe it’s...
I installed an ARB CKMA12 air compressor (forgot to take a pic) but I didn’t use any special mounts. Just bolted it to the passenger side wheel well. (I’ll have to update with a pic)
I didn’t want to use the ARB switch, so I ordered one from ch4x4.com and I’d like to eventually add (at least) a...