I have a fj80 power steering box mounted up front to eliminate the extra drag link, idler arm pivot, and tie rod ends. I have about 5 degrees positive caster with wedges. Mine does not wander at all. It actually drives really nice, even at 70+ MPH. I don't even have a steering stabilizer.
I really don't see how you can help that much without sandblasting. It would be so worth it. The only other way I know of to get all the rust off [you really have to] is an angle grinder with a coarse flap disc and a mini belt sander to get into the tight areas. I have done this and it works...
Thank you so much. The Orion- H55f combo has had no issues so far other than the seal leaking. It has been amazing to drive. 70 MPH on the freeway is no problem. I get 24 MPG highway. I usually drive about 65 MPH. Diesel fuel is expensive, but still for a FJ40 this is pretty incredible.
I built it myself, this video orion video has photos of it being built. I also have a build thread. 78 fj40 , 1kz-te , h55f , orion - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/78-fj40-1kz-te-h55f-orion.723496/
Thanks for the tip, I am going to keep it, I also put an inline strainer in the hose, it is stainless steel mesh, not too fine, so it does not impede the flow of the thick gear oil.
Just wanted to report I have about 11 years on my 4:1 ratio Orion now, and it is my daily driver, and occasionaly I wheel it. Only problem I've had is gear oil pumping from the t-case to the transmission. I added a hose from t-case to transmission fill plug for now till I can put in a new seal.
I got an incredible deal on my rust free 40 in 2011. If I was looking to buy one now I would wait a while longer, I believe some bargains will start popping up in a few months if the Fed does another interest rate hike. However if I really needed to buy a vehicle right now, it would be something...
Talked to a guy yesterday that said he has a hard top and ambulance doors in great shape he needs to sell. No front doors. Located in Mountain Home , Arkansas 870-291-3224 ask for Herman
I marked and measured the original transmission and engine location before removing it . You want to be sure that the center line of the of the rear output shaft on the transfer case is exactly where it was in all 3 directions when you put the new engine / trans in . You also need to know...
A small block chevy is only a couple of inches longer than a 1kzte . With an electric fan on the front of the radiator and no fan on the water pump it might fit .
Yes , putting in the shorter 4 cylinder diesel allowed me to move the engine forward enough to fit the longer h55 + adapter and keep the origional drive shafts and parking brake .
Thanks for the compliment ! I have almost 30,000 miles on it now , and it is still my daily driver , except when it rains . My 40 is rust free and the last one I had rusted out . I want to keep this one rust free .I have a Chevy Blazer that I have been doing a frame off restoration on all winter...