With a 4' lift, it would be safe to assume that you will have at least a 33' tire if not a 35' tire do yourself a favor,convert to power steering and kill two birds with one stone. both the 60 or saginaw power steering units will eliminate that drag link completely.
OK< if the knuckles are from a 79, then the TRE's are from that era either a 40 or a 60 series. Either will fit. when you put the 70 knuckles on it also meant, you put on 79 steering arms which in turn uses bigger TRE's. It looks like it came off of a 60 series to me
one thing is you have the caliper(s) on the wrong sides... unless the pic is upside down. just kiddin... looks good, how much did that "kit" cost verses going to a later axle?
be careful... without the tub on the frame it hard to tell how much clearance you have from the body. I have a 465 in mine the clearance for the heater is very close, and if you go too far up the shell for the trans. will rest on the trans.
If done correctly you will not "need" to check them that often... I put mine on 5 yrs ago wheel the piss out of my 40 and they are still there. just sayin...
Randy, look into the chevy 63" springs for the rear. Andy has done this to his wagon and says it has changed the the way the truck handles and flexes way better, and at the same time it is more stable. And if done right you can put the rear shackle through the frame, lowering the truck by...
ok... open the hood. have a friend watch the motor. put the truck in low range, 1st gear set the e brake or put the front tires against the curb or something that wont move, and then rev up the engine and let out the clutch a little if the driver side of the motor lifts up more than an inch...
think of it this way...the distance from the rear wheels to the hitch ball (on the towing rig) may differ, so from a stand still, if you turn hard right the the hitch ball swings hard left, causing the wheels to "want to turn left .. but begin to be "dragged" to the right. I have learned...