Well, thanks for the additional vote. Kind of went off the deep end and I am keeping the 2008 LX570 and picked up a diesel crew cab truck. After watching the 2016 plus market and how inconsistent it is for the 200 series across most of the country and coming to the realization it wasn't really...
That's why I was kind of leaning towards the 16 plus cruiser, as long as it had been there I figured one more day wasn't going to be a big deal.
The LX across the board as stated many times before is definitely, and usually the more economical choice.
🤷 guess I didn't think about that too much. I almost put a deposit down on a 2016 LC200 that had been at a dealership since June of last year and was priced really good for the mileage now, even looked at it briefly when I was in the city it was located, then the weather was s*** this weekend...
I am contemplating making the jump from our lower mileage 2008 LX570 that we have owned for seven years to a newer 2016 plus model. Vehicle is technically the main family vehicle, but doesn't get a ton of mileage annually, I think it currently has right around 116k miles. Any experiences...
Short of it, can the front wheel studs be replaced without pulling front hub?
Wife taking son, to airport, hit something metal in road, discount tire re-balanced wheels last week and over torqued lugnuts, two were broken removing wheel to put spare on.
Bunch of tools, jack, and jackstands on...
I kind of dig the power rear hatch, but in reality it's like + 20 seconds of pure anguish. I have been debating the 24 or 40 gallon option for longer than I want to admit. I loath the swing out option and will go with a hard mount upright interior spare tire carrier when the time comes.
I'll chime in on your winch venture, though I don't comment too much anymore. I have a 20 year old warn heavy weight, though not currently installed since I sold my 100 series. The only thing I will say for Warn, you can get parts for them from virtually anywhere, and even hodge podge them if...
Looks really nice. I would bring up the wheel issue immediately with whoever you had do the work, unacceptable in my opinion. I personally would go down to 36-38 psi and see what you think. I bought a set of the older version Rotiva Plus AT's right before they released these, I was a bit...
I think it looks great so far. I would take a heat gun and the remains of the front bumper cover cut a dedicated sample similar to what you are actually using on the vehicle and see if I couldn't get it to bend down the way you would want. Could make a jig out of some wood scraps with a wide...
Well, that's a good start. I would definitely still swap to the oem wheel tire set up if possible to rule anything else out.
How many miles do you have on your duratrac's?
I've had several sets over the years, can't believe they haven't updated them really ever.
I am doubtful it is because of your tire chunking. I bet the tire shop is just looking for an easy sell. That being said, I would really throw your stock wheel tire set up on and give that a go, that would be the easiest process of elimination regarding anything wheel and tire related.
How...
Intermittent, I'm going with suspension or driveline. Chased this on my 100 series for awhile. Try to isolate when the vehicle actually dose this as best as possible. Honestly I would try a way to mount a go pro in an advantageous spot to view from the hub inward. It could literally be...
Just an honest opinion, and not trying to be an a$$. If you have experimented with that many different pad types already, and have been changing pads that frequently, until you change your driving style, it will not matter what compound or formulation of pad/rotor type you try.
All that...
Just a thought. I fought this for quite some time. Turned out to be upper shock bushings. They conformed to the mount after awhile, and had to be what I would consider be over tightened and the thunk/knock went away. These were Icon shocks, but thought I would chime in.