What a PITA. Sounds like something is not seated properly, or one or both of the bearings were damaged from driving on them after the initial install.
Jack up front end, remove drive flanges, remove calipers, spin hubs both directions and listen and feel for play and roughness. Check...
I don't have clue what you are talking about.
The inner hub seal rides on the spindle and shouldn't have any contact with the inner wheel bearing. If you have wear grooves on the hub seal, then the hub is not assembled correctly or you have installed the wrong parts.
How did you...
Whine under load can indicate excessively worn gears, like ring and pinion gears in the front differential. I have seen this in land cruisers.
Since the noise goes away with the front propeller shaft out, I would suspect the front differential.
I've always seen a little bit of grease migration from the knuckle into the front axle, even with good seals. I don't even worry about it on my rig, it's a lot easier to change out the diff fluid every so often than to tear down the front end. I just keep an eye on the grease level.
You...
Also, by your description, I might suspect a faulty thottle position signal. There are tests to check whether your TPS is functioning correctly or not. And you can check to see if the wire harness and connectors leading to the TPS are in good shape. You can PM me if you need the FSM...
The FSM has a great trouble shooting guide. If you really look over it in detail, you should find your problem. Regarding my previous post, any faulty component in the mandatory cancellation system should effect TC lock-up behavior. I was just posting that to indicate the other systems that...
Are you cleaning the threads completely? Dirty threads will give false torque readings. Might as well not even bother using a torque wrench unless the threads are completely clean. The front axle is a veritable breeding ground for oil- and grease-based crud that makes repairs a PITA.
From the FSM:
"Mandatory Cancellation of Lock−Up System:
If any of the following conditions exist, the TCM turns off lock−up solenoid valve to disengage the lock−up clutch.
(1) The brake light switch comes on (during braking).
(2) The IDL points of the throttle position sensor close...
Did you look at the seal surface on the pinion flange? Slinger or not it shouldn't leak if the seal surfaces are ok and it was pre-lubed. The flange should sit on the pinion splines tightly, i.e. too tight to assemble by hand. If it's too loose, oil can work it's way out the splines.
Looking for some help finding a good (=quiet) set of OEM (=Toyota) reverse cut 4:10 gears for the front e-locker (FZJ80). I'd prefer something with known mileage, etc. If you have some from left over from re-gearing, please pm me. Thanks, Matt.
Personally, I think a vehicle that has been very well maintained would be in better shape at 250K than one that hasn't had much care at 150K. Even a POS Chinese car that is well maintained will outlast the highest quality German-engineered auto that doesn't see any maintanence. Just depends on...
Is it me, or does it look like the oil pressure gauge is reading a little low for 2400-2500 rpms? Mine usually only gets that low when idling at 500-600rpms.
If you have the 8-pin connector...
The solenoid part of the VSV can fail, giving you the CEL. This can be the case if the EGR malfunction occurs when the engine is warm but not cold.
Hey man have you checked your EGR VSV? You can test the resistance from the main engine harness. The correct pins/circuits are labeled in the EWD. If there is no continuity or no resistence, then the VSV is toast. Aside from looking up info in the EWD and FSM, it should only take 5 minutes.