Possible earthing issue somewhere. Maybe a loose connection dislodged by the mechanic doing the original work.
With the alternator, check the voltage across the battery with the engine running but with everything else off. Then turn everything on, if the voltage drops below 12.5v and doesn't...
Replace all your soft lines. Old brake hoses often swell under pressure. Check the LSPV works and nice new fluid all round.
Check the hose to your brake booster for splits.
I'm running 35"s and a 25% low reduction box and I can stall the engine and hold on steep slopes with my brakes.
Turns out the alternator is shot.
Its providing 14.5v with no load, but as soon as you switch on lights, etc its dropping to below 12.3v
Apparently the battery is fine, which works for me as I have a spare alternator, and the battery/road assist guy didn't charge me.
Thanks fellas
Its cranks and runs if I keep my foot on the gas, but dies instantly I take my foot off.
Battery is sitting at 12.89v prior to cranking, 12.55 after.
I suspect my battery is toast as well, but I'm think the alternator is probably the reason the battery is suffering.
I know the headlights are...
24hours later, I'm checking the fusible link and I have power to the fusebox.
Just for giggles I stick the key in the ignition, and WTF!! all the lights on the dash come on and the dog's trodden on the locker compressor switch and its pumping away.
Where to from here??
Thanks mate
Any idea why the main beam would have shorted everything out? Voltage spike from a bad earth?
I've got a fusible link sitting at home but I don't want to stick it in just to have it go again.
G'day fellas,
Been a long time:flipoff2:
Just had my truck completely die on me. Now nothing works. Nothing.
Let me set the scene. I've been driving the truck regularly short distances pretty much daily recently, but the truck was sitting for about 3 months whilst it was in the body shop and...
The exhausts main restriction on the 80 isn't with the manifold but where the 2 header pipes merge into one. The pipes on the stock exhaust are squashed to together. Getting rid of this restriction definitely gains bhp on the butt dyno.
Its less of an issue on the 100series as Toyota redesigned...
No.
Get a vacuum gauge and attach it to your intake manifold somewhere, maybe the brake servo hose, that will tell you if you have leaking valves.
If you pull the rocker cover you could check the shim clearances, if they are out of spec you could be getting the symptoms you're describing.
But...
Musta missed this back in '04
Was 36 then
Engineer turned geek
Picked up the 80 in '01. was looking for an old Range Rover cause the missus didn't want another tractor (Defender), when the fella at the car yard lent me the 80 for the weekend 'just to try'...
Had it ever since (but I did buy...
Cracked air intake tube between the air filter and intake manifold. Usually cracks at the concertina'd bit, symptoms are intermittent low idle around 400rpm.
Other possibility is a dodgy O2 sensor, they can fail slowly over time and not cause a CEL until it finally dies
I'll say springs. After 21 years supporting a bus, they've a: sagged and b: work hardened.
Consider springs and shocks consumables, esp if you do a lot of corrugation driving, so get yourself a decent quality spring and shock combo suitable for the load you're carry and you'll have a much...
Back in the day I did a similar thing. Standard Bilsteins with a 3" lift.
On the front shocks I got a piece of RHS maybe 2" by 1.5" (50mm by 30mm) drilled a hole top and bottom. Put a bolt through the bottom hole and attached it to the current shock mounting and then fed the shock pin through...