“This implies a plugged idle circuit.” Possibly, but probably not. The most common cause is a vacuum leak somewhere resulting in you (or someone else) needing to turn up the idle SPEED screw to get it to idle or pull the choke a little. That gets it to idle alright, but the result is that the...
FWIW,
It won’t hurt to rebuild the carb if it has not been done in a long time, but If the only problem is the accelerator pump, you can replace the pump and clean out those passages in just few minutes. I would resist the temptation to replace the entire carb with a new one. Been there-done...
The throttle shaft joint is not very tight, so a little vacuum leak or gas leak is not unusual.
That said, you should not have gasoline dropping on the throttle butterfly at idle. At normal idle, the gasoline should be going through the idle circuit and entering below the throttle butterfly...
I’ve been looking to replace the cheap chinese 3 point belts I bought many years ago. I LOVE the new hummer belts. No issue with retraction. Not the screaming great deal that they were a few years ago, but still cheaper than new chinese ones. They are beefy and run smoothly. Angle brackets...
Several questions: Your battery voltage measured at the coil is 11.25? Very low. What is the voltage at the battery terminals? You should get pretty much the same voltage at the coil with the points open. And with the points open you should have near zero resistance from the dissy body to...
If you follow the toyota FSM adjustment procedure, you’ll get the results you see. Too much pumping. The drums need to be adjusted so that you can barely get them to spin one turn with a lot of effort. Anything looser will not work. That said, disk brakes work without adjustment and front...
The ”adjusters” is just a threaded shaft with a toothed wheel. If your only problem is a rusted threads, you might get lucky and be able to free it up. If the cylinder is frozen, that’s a different story entirely. Take the drum off again and see what you are up against. You can check to see...
First find the idle SPEED and the idle mixture screws. The idle speed one is almost impossible to see on the rear of the carb. That basically sets the stop on the throttle linkage. That‘s the one that you want to find. Also make sure that the choke is not engaged.
I know that this has been discussed in the past but I can’t find it for the life of me. I want to refinish this dash cluster panel and need 4 simple decals that say “oil” “fuel” Temp” and “Amp”.
There are some on Ebay for $3 or $4 plus $16 shipping each. Is there a simple solution to this...