....No Dean, that's not a lot of rust or pitting in the rear tub. It's minor if compared to what a lot of guys here have dealt or drive around with so it still comes down to you deciding what you want or can afford the truck to be. Chances are you'll move on to another hobby before that floor...
The Procar stuff is available all over. Summit has them and their prices might trump CC)T by a little: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/
Well, that link...summit must have joined with a wider net scope or something, so just go to Summit Racing.
That looks too cool to be a reality. There must be something that spoils it because if it is as good as it seems then Miller or some big forward looking weld equipment outfit would have bought them out first time it appeared anywhere.
Yeah, if by 'restoration' you mean to go for a near or like new truck then you have to replace it and likely a lot more of the steel along with it, up to and not to exclude the whole tub.
If you want to have a decent looking cruiser to use, to bang up and hammer straight again, to become your...
A lot of thieves don't fool around with ignition or fuel or any of that anymore. They just drive through the parking lot in whatever kind of tow rig and just take what they want, the whole vehicle. Hook it up in a couple of minutes - you'll never see it again.
Take something else to the ball game.
And you assume that the module is good because why?
I used to run an HEI distributor. What I carried in my glove box was spare module(s). Delco-Remy preferable, IMO.
That's a '66 FJ40 with a later top that originally had ambulance doors.
I just sold the truck in summer into Florida; never heard whether the buyer is happy with it but I guess that's better than him being all pissed off because I'm SURE I would've heard about that.
BTW, I did convert the to...
One thing about the OEM style soft tops - you can't lower them. You can roll up the sides and upper rear panel if you use a tailgate or substitute but without removing the entire canvas top you'll not get the wind blowing through your hair or the sun shining down upon you.
The OEM top is not a...
Well, I'll be damned. I THINK that's the first photo I've seen you post in my what, 12 years on the site Mark. I guess it affirms that you CAN teach an old dog new tricks after all, eh? :D
I think I'd have that ground flush with the case, welded over entirely, and use a new bung nearby as a drain.
Unless those threads could be recreated perfectly a repaired drain would probably leak.
Needs a solid tig weldor either way.
New MSRP is probably right around $5000. and discount sellers may get as low as around $4200. alo new.
It's a good plow setup so I think if I were in your area I'd hold close to $3000.
Think about whether or not you want to be locked to your mechanic arguing about how much every little thing...
I like a sharp chisel under the heads of the pins.
If the top ones have come out for you put them back in partway so the bottom ones will still run straight.
Don't believe everything you read on a can of WD-40. They took losses in reputation after desmogging their formulas and have been trying...
They're both !F engines? Do all the passages look identical? Does each pump have the same number of connections pointing in the same direction? Do the bolt holes line up (use sticks or long bolts, whatever)? Do the pulleys extend a like distance?
Quit reading - start doing.
I have a set of stock springs from a 1977 BJ40 that had 37,000 miles on it when I changed to OME. Since they're like near-new and include bushings and shackles I kinda' have always thought that SOMEBODY doing a fully stock restoration might come along.
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