I know this is an old thread but just wanted to say THANK YOU! I've been battling wheel spacer vibration on and off for the past couple years. Used tapered lug nuts to center the wheel before bucking down the shouldered nuts this past weekend. Truck has never ridden so smooth at speed...
This explains it best
https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/496150-tie-rod-flip.html
I ran the tie rod/drag link on the underside of the steering/pitman arms instead of flipping to the top. Got the kit from WFO Concepts...good guys.
Thanks for the offers Beno and Simon. I found a local guy that does stainless and mandrel work out of his garage. Booked in to have it done next week. Will post pics when it's complete.
Yeah, I think I'm gonna go 2.5" with factory routing. No time in the schedule though so gotta find someone in the Okanagan to weld stainless. Suggestions?
Thanks for the feedback. I should have mentioned that pricing for the 3 pipe sections was just over $700 (assume USD) per the toyodiy site (not sure how dated that info is). I'll fab up any of the small incidental stuff that isn't readily available and use a US vendor/shipping address if I end...
Time to rework the entire exhaust system from the manifold back. I'm tempted to go back to the stock Toyota system mainly because of the inherent quality. Not sure if there's any availability on these though. Any recommendations re. vendor contacts for the stock system or quality custom shops...
Just FYI. I replaced the primary glow relay (on the front battery bracket) on my HZJ77 with one from my old 24V HJ60. That was about 3 yrs ago...still works fine.
In my case the Reese black box that converts 3 wire input into 2 wire output got cooked...presumably b/c of 24v input. As soon as I unhooked and tossed it everything went back to normal. Ended up running separate brake and signal lights on my trailer.
This is what is looks like...
The only advantage of the spring loaded Toyota rod ends that I'm aware of is the ability to remove excessive play by tightening the end cap. That being said, I've had 3 units over the past 10 years that have been converted to GM steering components in one way or another...none of which suffered...
I like this alot. Any chance you have the GM part numbers/moog part numbers for the rod ends that you used. Did you have to reverse the taper in the LH tie rod end (where the LH drag link end mounts)? Thanks in advance.