i drive alot of forest gravel washboard where i live so i keep psi around 28. the forest “road” trails i’ll so 20-24 depending on the conditions. smooths out so well with the nATs. as we’ve entered mud season between the snow i am also very impressed. i feel like a goat just crawling up and down.
i’ll chime in too as i’m in similar situation. first winter in CO. i’m on the nATs 255/75/17. i’m very happy on how their are performing on the packed snow roads, and powder, much better than the fairly new ko2s i swapped out. i wish i could compare them to a true snow tire just to see. right...
i am loving my set. swapped out a fairly new set of ko2s after the first few snows when moving to colorado. they give me such a safer and secure feeling on packed snow and have been amazing in the fresh powder. great on I80 and I25 at 80+ mph and our local washboard gravel forest roads
nice… i have a similar-ish rear set with airbag delete, 4600 shocks, fj springs and the firestone bags. i have the bags independent from the air system though with a manual inflate via external shrader valve
when are you checking your oil level? per FSM engine should be warmed, then turned off for several minutes before checking level. you could be getting a false reading. just my 2 cents worth.:cheers:
i had same problem. was caused by salt corrosion in the trailer wire harness underneath, near the spare. resolved via removal and replacement with the Hoppy harness that connects inside the side panels. good luck:cheers:
i brought a rust free 96 from san antonio up to wisconsin 2 years ago. after 2 winters being constantly soaked in salt brine, it really shows no ill signs. a small amount of superficial "browning" on exposed under carriage bolts is all.for example, i recently adjusted the lspv bracket. no...
hey,i know this one!!! BFH= big f'ing hammer. also, i did not separate the hub/rotor when i did mine, as i was not replacing the rotor. the races can be replaced while leaving the hub/rotor together. good luck:cheers: