SOR calls it an O2 sensor, not saying they're the be all and end all though. I attached a photo of the SOR picture. #11 is referred to by them as an O2 sensor. Anyway, whatever. PCV is new. I don't know about the EGR, but the modulator is new. smog hoses could stand to be replaced, but no...
My '84 fj60 failed the cruising part of the CO test. air pump is intact and working. I plan to replace plugs ( I've been running cooler plugs) and cat converter, oil change, air filter. If that doesn't work, I'll probably do a carb rebuild.
Could a bad O2 sensor be an issue as well?? Is...
Swank-all true yes. But, I'm going to keep looking. If I find anything I'll let everyone know. I'm looking forward to when I don't have to have this thing smogged. What is the vehicle age to absolve oneself from this responsibility?? Does it vary by state or is it federal??
Cheers
That's interesting, considering you can rebuild the carb, or replace cat converters, EGRs, etc. But the whole capitalistic money making thing makes sense.
Cheers
I opened up my smog pump over the weekend and based on its simplicity I'm curious to know if one can purchase the internal guts of the thing (vanes, brushes, bearings etc). Seems to me that specter or someone should sell a rebuild kit with the vanes etc.
And where does specter get their...
The removal was easy and taking the thing apart wasn't too complicated either(four bolts). It's a fairly simple mechanism inside, fairly easy to put back together. Pulling it apart takes a little coersion, Just make sure you don't lose any pieces. I guess the thing to look for is what sort of...
It was spinning, but I knew that the PSP was leaking all over it and the truck failed the cruising CO emissions part of the test, So I naturally suspected the smog pump, as it may not have been pumping enough or any air into the system.
I pulled the smog pump this weekend and opened it up. What an interesting piece of equipment, I had no idea how this thing really worked, but found the guts rather fascinating. Anyway, the carbon blades and everthing seemed to still be intact, good bearings etc. I was rather amazed by this...
I'm assuming that if one were to gut the smog pump and leave the shell in for pully purposes that there would be no harm done overall to the engine...am I correct?? That is, if I can still pass the cruising part of the CO emissions test with the gutted smog pump and a new cat.
It's likely that you have a leaky rear main seal, which in turn is leaking oil on your clutch causing it to slip, or in some cases shudder. Really the only way to fix the slip is replace the seal and while you're in there replace the clutch as well.
looks like a new ABV is rather pricey. I'll check that out as well. I think I'll initially install a new smog pump and cat, check the ABV, then if that fails, I'll check some of the other issues, ie: carb etc.
Well, this isn't so bad. The PS pump has already been rebuilt and I know that the smog pump needs replacement, so I'll go ahead with that to start with, maybe do a couple other small things. Have it rechecked and then if it fails again I'll be sending you all another thread.
Thanks for all...
the engine was rebuilt roughly 3,000 miles ago with new pcv etc. I'll check the PCV valve.
the smog/air pump is likely on its way out because the PS pump was leaking all over it. Could this be a problem??
I put in cooler plugs to ease some pinging, would a return to the hotter plugs...
My 85 60 failed the CO cruising portion of the test (WA state), citing above allowed limits of CO. Any thoughts on possible causes for the failure??
I figure it might have something to do with the air/fuel mixture, too much fuel, not enough air. I doubt a tweak on the mixture screw would do...
Sure, when I pull out the choke more, the idle does increase, thus keeping the engine from dying. But when I go to drive it, the idle is a bit, shall I say, unpredictable and I have to keep adjusting the choke to compensate for the decreasing idle. This only occurs for a couple miles then...