Yes, doesn’t matter if you’re using the previously available “name brand” override switch or sticking in a $2 DPST switch inline or cutting wires - if the system doesn’t know the vehicle is moving ie no front wheel speed input - then the adaptive variable suspension stays in its quiescent state...
Yes you can, but then you will have no adaptive variable suspension because the system doesn’t know the vehicle is moving. It’s a simple dynamic system but when you eliminate the key input, vehicle speed, you get consequences. So yep, cut wires and drive around in position 8 non dynamic damping.
The vast majority of undefined, random height/leveling issues are the result of some sort of sensor or harness defect - wear and tear, broken/maladjusted mechanisms, internal corrosion or a harness issue. Without monitoring the sensors feedback (all three) and generally assessing the system it’s...
The three sensors share a common signal point to the ECU, the two front sensors are on their own circuit and provide a front left and front right input to the ECU. The rear is on its on cct and it provides it’s own input. Firmware determines vehicle heights and leveling on actual voltage...
It’s actually pretty easy to screw up swapping in a Dorman aftermarket sensor if you’re not just a little bit careful. They can be inadvertently over rotated when tightening the retainer nut and you loose the crucial mechanical to electrical (resistive) alignment and consequently get bad and/or...
Pete if your front end appears high then that is consistent with the +2.2 inch reading for the front right which makes the - 3.2 inch for the front left look pretty damn odd. I think your front left sensor is out of whack and the system has gone into fail safe. If you have manual control over...
Guys, do you realize that when you interrupt the normal speed inputs to the AHC ECU via switching you’re also disabling the adaptive variable suspension? Ever noticed that when testing and tuning the system whilst in your garage that both step inputs (damping settings) are 8? Well they are 8s...
I’d lower your front neutral pressure another 0.2-0.4 MPa. How many graduations are you counting on the L to H check? If you’re not getting air/foam out of the front hydraulic circuit and the fluid you do get is somewhat pinkish and not black/nasty then you probably don’t need more fluid...
You want 825 psi front and something like 725-750 rear at your chosen N height. Low and H pressures don’t really matter, nor does the 16 step damping at anything other than N either, unless you install a height override and drive in H. Then you’d reset pressures to your actual driving height on...
The system is designed to drive at one height (N) with a predetermined pressure range for the front and rear circuits. If you lower the height (and therefore the preload pressures) or raise the height (and pressures) you change the whole equilibrium of the system and it can’t work to the fullest...
What’s the ride quality like at N with the system manually locked at damper setting step 1 front and rear? If you’re seeing the rear step changing whilst in motion then that suggests the control side of things should be (could be?) ok. I’d love to know what your actual pressures are, via gauge...
When you’re sitting in park, engine running the front and rear damper settings remain at mid setting (step 8 if the system is working as designed). The adaptive variable dampening doesn’t become active until you’re moving and then it’s a function of speed, braking, acceleration and a few other...