Just what the title says, 4-link kit set up for buckets and coils, and an fj60 axle that is prepped with the top brace welded on. Located in North Seattle, WA. Not willing to ship as it's all heavy.
Andy did. Unfortunately the bolt on his anti-wrap bar had sheared at some point during the ride, so it wasn't doing it's job when he gassed it to get up and over a rock face. To add insult to injury, his alternator (presumably) got fried when he tried to winch himself up and over. So, took us...
Short compilation of clips from some of us WA guys at CM2014. It was a great trip this year and looking forward to coming back. Hopefully we'll skip busting a pinion shaft on the last day, last obstacle of the Golden Spike trail...
Mounting a 6" PSC ram on my SOA FJ40 with Histeer conversion. I've got the ram mounted about as parallel to the tie rod as I can get it. I've already added an internal spacer to the ram to limit its range to a bit shorter than the full travel of the tie rod. I'm using a clamp style mount on...
Well, that's the thing, I've watched the pics and videos that don't always give the obstacles much justice. It seems like for a short wheel base you'd really need a strap on the rear bumper to avoid tipping end over on nose dive.
Starting to map out what trails I'd like to do at Cruise Moab. How gnarly would Behind the Rocks be? I'm in a SOA fj40, ARBs front and rear on 37" tires, leaf-sprung at ~99" wheelbase.
Some of those puddles are deep, so keep an eye out. Particularly if you come across a bunch of "spectators" just hanging out to see who's foolish enough to try to make it across. More than one engine has been hydrolocked there...
Have fun, and let me know when you decide to hit Elbe, could...
Surprised you aren't going to Elbe instead, I didn't think there was much to wheel at Tahuya other than a couple of water holes and Yellow Jacket Hill?
If you're getting a leak from the back of the tcase and you're going to go through the effort to fix it, check out Mudrak's option for adding a second seal in the housing between the tcase and drum brake, or do it yourself (which isn't that hard). You can also add a Speedi-sleeve to the shaft...
I was contemplating this same issue on my SBC- at least for the Chevies it sounds like there are two-piece rear main seals that, while they still require the removal of the oil pan, do not require separating the transmission from the engine. Might want to look into it a bit more before pulling...
Good mod, search around and you'll find the part number for heavy duty relays from NAPA. There's a pretty high current draw when it first fires up (~70 amp or so) before it settles down. The standard cheapo relay isn't going to do the trick.
In addition to the speedi-sleeve, it's a good time to put a second seal in the housing, either by buying it from Mudrak or just grinding off the lip and doing yourself (a 1 or 2 banana job at most).
Try putting some teflon tape on the plug.
Regarding switching fluid over, I'd probably fill with water, and run the engine till the temp gets up to temp so that the thermostat opens so you're getting flow through the whole system. Let cool, drain, repeat. Put the red/water mix in after...