We're just replacing the clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing....there's another thread about what happened.....basically the clutch disc broke around the transmission input shaft. When we were putting it back together I...like and idiot...broke the bell housing.
We should be good now....new...
We finally worked though our broken bell housing and broken clutch issues and buttoned everything back up.
One problem....the clutch fork isn't installed.
Any tips for installing a Chevy clutch fork after everything is together?
It's a SBC with a Chevy bell housing. It's the aluminum bell...
Thought I'd update the thread.
My problem ended up being the clutch plate itself. When my son pulled off the pressure plate 5 pieces of steel dropped out. One we removed the clutch the metal around the transmission input shaft was broken in 5 spots on the flywheel side of the clutch plate...
I'm still working on it. I made a longer slave rod to clutch fork and that didn't change anything.
I did go do some research on the clutch kit I bought and using the models and numbers provided in that other link:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/47498-clutch-aa-bellhousing.html
By...
I thought about this last night and I think I'm going to adjust the mount so that it's about 1/2 inch closer to the clutch arm and go from there. Seems like the slave rod was always near the end of its adjustment anyway.
If someone could identify the clutch arm it would be appreciated.
I'll start with this is my son's 73 FJ40 with a SBC in it that we rebuilt and put a new clutch in in May 09. It's been fine up until about 3 weeks ago.
It wouldn't go into 1st or reverse at a stop. We thought it was the slave and replaced it. Today I replaced the master and no improvement...
I found this with a quick Google search:
body filler, epoxy putty, auto body filler, high temperature epoxy, aluminum epoxy, automotive body filler, epoxy high temperature, car body filler, putty epoxy
It's supposed to to just slide on. The pinion shaft will limit inward travel of the axle so they don't come in far enough in to fall off. Pull the axles out, as far as C-clip will allow, to finish your installation.
I had not luck getting one cut in Atlanta....quotes ranged from $160 to $350.....and I called more than 30 shops.
My guess is no one wants to deal with the laminated glass.
I ended up ordering this with gasket and lock:
Toyota Land Cruiser Windshield - 1965 - 1974
I received it in 2 days.
I used this kit:
Toyota Land Cruiser Tie Rod Ends - 5 Piece Kit - 1963 - 1984
They were nice tie rods.....Triple 5 brand.
The steering arm (from steering box), and passenger side tie rods are left hand threaded.
Are you in a hurry? My daughter is a senior at University of Tennessee and my son and I will be headed there for his orientation July 6th and 7th. We could bring them up.
pb4ugo is right.......if you take them off get them checked and resurfaced.
I think the quote I got was $188 a pair to replace seals, guides, grind the valve and seats and check the deck.
for new heads...check these guys:...(they list 2 Vortec heads at $195 rebuilt and $240 for new)...