I ended up changing to a single-cardan front drive shaft, having a single universal joint at each end. I put a double cardan on the transfer case side of the rear driveshaft. Basically flip-flopped from how it came from the factory. This did give me more clearance from the catalytic converter on...
Did you not have gauges with a tach prior to the swap? The tach output on the 3rz ECU is on the IK2 harness and should be light green with a black stripe. My thinking is that you would need to connect that to the A6 input on the Combo Meter.
Just an observation. Every ref is different. I think the most important thing to consider is how clean of a swap you do. The more factory/professional/clean your installation is, the more respect you will get, therefore the less picky he/she will be.
I posted about it here 3RZ / 2RZ Swap Notes - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3rz-2rz-swap-notes.1236525/#post-13561631
I am happy to answer any other questions
Are you planning to combine brake and turn into a single light? I did that on my flatbed and used a taillight converter and load resistors for the flash.
After burning up the cheap taillight converters every few years, I added some relays to take the load out of the converter.
An alignment shop can't really do much for these solid axles besides adjusting the toe (which can be done yourself) or helping detect a bent housing. They would have to be Toyota SA specific and make or stock steel shims and have the ability to do a "cut and turn" to be worthwhile.
Here's a...
I like these temp controllers for electric fan control. It can control the speed of the fan based on needs and has a/c input control plus is reliable for the high current an electric fan draws.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm
There were some wiper seal kits that had a split in the seal but I'm not seeing those anymore when I search around, I guess they didn't work too well so yeah, gotta take em apart. One more thing I'd like to add. In my 85 factory manual, Toyota says to only pack 3/4 of the knuckle volume with...
you are likely at the early stages where the inner axle seals are leaking into the knuckles, mixing with grease, and dripping past the seals that aren't designed to stop diff fluid from coming out.
some scenarios
if just the knuckle seals are bad, water and dirt gets in that could damage the...
did you replace the e-brake shoes when you replaced the rotors? there is still a tension adjuster in there that holds the shoes close to the drum regardless of how loose you make the e-brake cable. I would guess the e-brake shoes are causing that noise.
it's obviously been modified. the door tab has been removed or something and then wrapped with a wire. that tab should be making it's way to the door trigger wire on the plug. that whole thing is a wreck, I'd throw it out and find a better one.