If you want to use any alarm regardless of voltage and you run a 12v auxiliary battery or converter you can use a bunch of relays to convert your inputs and outputs, from 12 to 24 and vise versa, when needed depending on how much you want from your alarm.
I agree, third battery is awesome to have. Using a converter or an alternator to charge the battery both have there pros and cons. A converter can be mounted virtually any where, great if your engine bay won't accommodate an extra alternator, but requires more wiring, and draws on the stock...
I run a 60amp denso unit, comes on all sorts of compact cars. its also the smallest unit out there very compact, the size of a grape fruit. I got mine off ebay been sold as a racing alternator.
second alternator, is super easy to wire up, it only needs one wire to the battery, and you have so much more amps than a converter will give you, also it wouldn't tax your stock system.
2nd that. I've been running that set up for a few years, and haven't had a single problem with it. I run two sets of off road lights, a winch, a sub for my stereo, plus a few smaller things. I like that I can leave my aux lights and stereo on for a long time with out any effect on the actual...
if you want an entire set of shims (four of each size) you can get them from here
Silver Seal Products Valve Clearance Disc Kit (37mm Dia. Toyota/Mitsubishi Kit)
The remote start I have on my hzj73 will turn the glow plugs on for a preset time or when the glow plug light on the dash goes out, and then tries to start, it will crank over for a a few seconds and if the engine hasn't started it will try the glow plugs again. I think it will do it three...
Hey is that a Zeal/Pro staff power rod? Does any one know if that would work in a boost compensator on a turbo 1hz. I can't remember if the boost compensator is actually off a 1hdt, if it is then it would work.
I haven't done it to a 13bt but on a 1hz and on a 2c-t, injection pumps are like a idle screw on a dirt bike, with a lock nut on it. 12mm lock nut and either a flat head screw driver or a 6mm socket or wrench on the tip of the fuel screw. I assume this would be the the same or fairly similar on...
Here's a link to a Italian company making cams for the 1hz.Ferricorse There cam increases lift and not duration, and I think lobe center is changed. They claim it doesn't lose power any where, only increases through out, and better fuel consumption.
I wonder if increased cam lift would help...
I just turn the fuel way down on the injection pump , makes the cruiser feel gutless but gets though aircare with fyling colors. Then I just crank it back up after its all done. I also do this to my girlfriends Townace van.
Got the head off, and its cracked between a a few valves and pre cups.
Wow is that head heavy.
My max boost was 14 psi, it wouldn't hit that often though. Maybe 12 psi would of been better.
Time to drink some beer to drown my sorrows.:beer:
I just pressurized the cylinders through the glow plug holes and was get air coming up through the radiator. :frown:
:wrench:So the head is coming off.
I guess I'll be calling ENS Toyota for a new head gasket, and possibly head. Is there any other source that's in BC for these parts? Are the...
Okay is there any thing special for bleeding the air from a 1hz that I don't know about.
Every vehicle I've owned I just pour in coolant, open heater valve, start the engine continue to top up the rad as the coolant level goes down, let it warm up, and replace the rad cap, fill the overflow tank.
I do have a pyro and boost gauge both were insignificant. I kept it easy because of the damaged radiator.
The t-stat is in the right way.
I haven't bleed the cooling system, since installing the new radiator. I also haven't driven the cruiser very long since the new radiator.
I did hit red...