24v systems are better for starting in cold environments but the parts availability issue makes it a deal breaker for me. I have 2 12v cruisers with dual batteries and parts are readily available. 24v parts are as scarce as hens teeth so if you want that hassle have at it.
I would keep looking until you found a BJ60 with a 5 speed; they're around. If you get a 4 speed you'll want a 5 speed.
The good news is the pumps are bombproof. They rarely go bad. I've not seen one go bad in the 25+ years I've been running cruisers.
A compression test is a great idea. In my...
3B 5-speed CDM were a common pairing. The HF55 tranny has a granny 1st gear. Pair this with 411 rear end gears and you have a streetable but off road capable rig. This combo can cruise at 70mph on the highway keeping up with modern traffic.
3B 5-speeds are still around in Canada as most rigs are...
Read up on 2H motors and ring problems. You might be better off with a 3B especially if you plan to add a turbo. You can source a 3B 5-speed from Canada which might be easier. The 3B is bombproof and its the same block used for the 13BT which is a factory turbo JDM so it takes a turbo nicely.
I fitted up my 3B with a TD05 from a Volvo. I also have another DIY turbo 3B fitted with a Garett turbo from a Volvo as well.
The latter was built by a member of this forum. They both work well and are significantly cheaper than sourcing a 13BT. Volvo must have used a couple different turbo...
Hey JG can you post a pic?
you could build a fuel cap with a tire valve through the middle so you could apply compressed air to your tank. Then open your bleeder screw and catch all the flying fuel in a pop bottle. Don't exceed 8-10psi or you may damage the tank. Sometimes air bubbles will not...
I use 4wheelauto in Edmonton. They're knowledgeable in the ten + years I've used them. For a recent 1st hand instance where they've saved me money, I was rebuilding the R&P in the rear end of my 60 series. One auto parts place simply gets their bearings from Toyota, (they will remain nameless)...
it seems like it struggles under load (up hills), the vacuum system increases the pull of fuel in this case. I'm not sure how the 13BT is set up but the 3B has a rudimentary system that does this. This leads me to lean towards some sort of fuel restriction. In my experience my truck will idle...
if you let your oil sit and settle for long enough........ie. >2wks. minimum..........your oil will be dry and not acidic. Be sure to decant all but the last 3-5cm in the bucket. The last of the bucket is where the water and acidic parts have settled to. This is tried and true by dozens of...
use a can of seafoam in a nearly empty svo fuel tank to clean the tank and your fuel lines. Then use another can of seafoam poured directly into your fuel filter to run this high concentration cleaner through your pump and injectors.
I'm not sure what you mean by UVO. I run 100% WVO. In other words oil deep fryer fat that I process myself to be clean down to 1 micron.
Sometimes invariably there are some saturated fats in the WVO I pick up. I presume this is from whatever meat went in the fryer to cook. At any rate the HFPU...
Galt's right.
........and I'd go one step further, but a heated fuel pick up for your tank (a Hotfox or similar), that way you can run any type of WVO, saturated or otherwise.