Hey guys. Filled the Transfer case last night in the dark and like an idiot I stripped the threads of the fitting that comes with the oil return kit from SOR. I need a new one and have no idea where to look. I believe its 17mm on the plug hole side and maybe 12mm on the hose side. I'll post up...
Just did mine and had the same problem. I drilled several out with a 13/64 bit and re tapped them . You could even use a slightly smaller bit and have good results. A couple didn't work very well so they now have nuts on the back side, not a big deal. I wouldn't waste my time trying to get those...
Go with a HVLP gun. The price of rattle cans will quickly add up. Use a single stage paint and the touch up isn't that big of a deal. Just painted mine with a single stage PPG urethane and it turned out great. The auto paint will last alot longer and will go on much faster than a Spray can job...
I broke my hazard switch during disassembly and ordered a replacement off of ebay. As you can see they are different. Can you guys tell what year's these are for? The one without the knob is the switch that I removed from my 76.
I was able to run out there and put the meter on everything. With the ammeter wires connected(so it closes the circuit) I now have juice where it needs to be. Thanks everybody - simple fix
Alright gentlemen....... After searching this forum and looking at the wiring diagram in the FSM I have this question. If the hot lead from the battery to the Ammeter is not hooked up or at least connected to the negative wire to the Ammeter will it cause my no power symptoms? I would run out...
I guess that is where my confusion comes in. It ran great when I parked it. I have juice to the wire that goes to the gauges. Other than that I have NOTHING. I've used my amp meter and it shows nothing to the fuse box, ignition, nothing. The only place it reads power is where the positive cable...
I have a 69 SBC in my 76. I have been working on the body getting ready for paint so I havn't started it since Nov. Today I tried to start it to get it down to the paint booth and I have zero juice. The only hot wire I have is the one that goes from the battery to the gauge cluster. I have power...
I'm in the process of painting mine now(shot primer yesterday, sanding today, hope to spray color tomorrow). Bought all of my paint from the local Martin auto color store here in town. They sell PPG and had no prob mixing the color for me. The Nason dealer also said they could do it. PPG code is...
I'm not sure what year they changed the size for sure. I believe it was possibly 75. I know it came out of a late 60's and was used in a 73. I have a 76 and it is too small. I'll post up some pics.
Getting ready to primer and paint the 40. The question I have is if it is absolutely necessary to block sand the primer before paint? Are there any problems with just laying color over the top? I know that if there are imperfections then block sanding will help that but this isn't a show rig...