Update: i was able to remove the upper housing using a vice to pull the upper housing the same way a puller SST would. So the old girls drivable now atleast. Just waiting on the new parts so I don't have to use a screwdriver to start her.
I'm just removing the upper bracket as shown in @AirheadNut's reply. It does appear ill need SST to compress the upper bracket and main shaft as there is a spring holding everything together.
Ok so there a appears to be a second U clip (prt: 45201B In The diagram) inside the housing holding one of the bearings in place. Unfounded I am unsure how to remove the clip.
I am currently attempting to remove the ignition housing from the steering wheel rod but um having some trouble. I've removed the u clip holding the housing in place but I still can't get it to budge. Have I missed something? Any help would be appreciated.
I ended up removing the whole bracket and maneuvering the alternator onto the bracket. then bolted it back on with the alternator attached. no more rattle from the alternator meaning my battery now charges properly.
The washer that's pressed into the alternator mount has popped out (Wether it's supposed to to that or not idk) and I can't get it back in to refit the alternator anyone got any tips on how to do it or is there a tool that will do it.
Just curious as to why my sub tank fuel solenoid is set up like this. It has two one isn't connected to any lines but is wired up. The second one has lines feeding into it and is also wired up. Not only that but on of the lines coming from the main tank is pinched closed. Wtf was going through...
My battery won't charge on hot days. I think it might be the alternator belt stretching. I can't think of anything else that could cuase this has anyone run into the same problem and how did you fix it?
Sorry I haven't responded to the thread in awhile, I still plan on getting g to the bottom of this and I'll keep you all posted on what's happening. ATM I've taken it for a few drives and it doesn't overheat nor does the oil pressure drop. So it's 100% a electrical problem. I'll look for the OK...
I just presumed it was the oil pressure light becuase it was next to the guage. The previous owner told me he had just done a oil change so going off that the last change was about 5 months ago. (I wonder if the light would come on if over filled) I may try doing a oil change and seeing if that...
I've disconnected both the oil pressure sensor and the oil level sensor but the light still comes on. So perhaps it is an electrical problem like previously suggested a bad ground perhaps.
This is the closest thing thing I could find to what you showed me. The lead from the sender intor this "relay" and then a sing wire continues into the wiring harness. I cannot find any switch that connects into the engine like the last picture supplied.
There isn't anything on the left side of the engine as far as I could see. Do you have a description of what the switch would look like? All I could see were these are any the switch you are referring to?