I've revisited it a few times and I still cannot come up with a way to get the amp to a position where I can even attempt to disconnect it from those cable bundles.
I've unbolted the amp but the cables plugged into it keep it from moving much. Any suggestions on how to unplug those pesky connectors from the amp with such little room to work?
When I get the chance, I'm going to pull this amplifier out and take a look at it. If it's damaged, I'll try to steal the amp from my other 450. It didn't seem like the "manual switch" option was a solution.
I put my vehicle up for about 3 months and when I got it back out, it was raining. It was summertime and I had sandals on. I could feel the water dripping onto my feet as if it were raining directly into the cab. And that was also about the time the heat and air system started getting screwy.
For some added context, this summer I took my truck to AutoZone to have some freon added to the system. At that point, the FSM seemed to be working, just not blowing cold air. Shortly thereafter, the module quit working at all - no longer turning the system on or off.
Yes, I was referring to the AC/Heater switch module. I knew head unit wasn't the correct term, but I wasn't sure what that module was called. I have thrown in a second unit from another Land Cruiser I have, but I cannot confirm that it works either, as the vehicle isn't running yet. That...
Neither my AC nor my heat works. In the summer I'm burning up and in the winter I'm freezing. The buttons on the control module don't seem to do anything. And then, randomly, the blower will come on full blast, and I can do nothing to stop it except for turning the car off. And that's not...
I'm looking to add to my tire size. I'm currently running 285's on the stock wheels but I'd like to move up to 315's on some steelies. What should I be looking for as far as wheel width? Also, I'm willing to move to a 17" wheel if that helps my case. Just needing some advice before I start...
So, the OEM locking diffs are about 2x the cost of the ARB locker. However the ARB needs a compressor, etc and probably needs professional installation. The OEM seems “easier” to install DIY. Is this inaccurate?
If you were to purchase one (or two) of these, what other hardware would you need? Because it basically comes assembled, it appears to be a feasible DIY project. I’d also like to hear opinions on cost/quality to OEM vs. ARB lockers.
I did what you suggested and I was able to pull that vertical part of the run back up to the top. I understand it's a temporary fix, but it certainly is better than how it was previously.
I have a massive amount of wind noise coming from my front passenger’s window. It appears to be missing a vertical piece of trim. Does anyone know what this is called and where to find a replacement.
Thanks
I was messing around behind my dash (I added a center diff lock button) and I noticed that the front and rear locker harness was hanging out behind the left side of my dash. I'm certain that my rig doesn't have front and rear lockers, so I was wondering where that harness goes. Has anyone used...