Seems like it would be easier to modify the point where the airbox meets the brackets rather than where the brackets meet the truck. But i haven't had one in my hands, so maybe that's not possible.
Maybe I'm reading this wrong, but it sounds like you expect oil to come out when you uninstall the plug on the end of the filter housing. That plug is a 2nd seal. Oil shouldn't come out when you remove that. If it was coming out before, then your housing was defective. Oil shouldn't come out...
well crap, thought I responded earlier. As stated above, the 5th accumulator is a cylinder near the height control valve. I wouldn’t be concerned with replacing it, or really doing anything with it. The only thing it is there for is speeding up lifts. In normal function, when a lift is called...
Might want to figure out what wires on the Tundra you are tapping into. I'm assuming they are the door open sensors. Shouldn't be too difficult to check the FSM for t-shooting those sensors to identify the plug and pin locations for the same sensors in the LC.
Wonder if possibly your 5th accumulator hasn't refilled and isn't being used. Did you drain it? Pretty sure you can only get those sub 10 second lifts when the accumulator is doing it's thing. I would try doing some L to Ns and give the truck plenty of time to fill the accumulator before...
There are a couple different frequencies that sensors use. The 200 switched frequencies at some point. Programmable/Clonable aftermarket sensors usually work on both bands, so will work with most vehicles. The OEM ones are much less “universal”.
If the system has more ground to make up, i.e. you request 68 degrees when it's 75 degrees in the truck, the fan speed increases. And any of the defrost settings default to high as well. I'm definitely in the camp of, just put it in auto and adjust the temp. If fan speed isn't high enough...
Just spitballing, but most of the times in Toyotas, I think the dimmer is controlled on the ground side of the circuit. I wonder if your connections are somehow creating a ground to complete the circuit. Something like a pinched wire in the frame. That would give constant lights on bypassing the...
Can’t remember if that plug can be flipped, but unlike incandescent bulbs, LeDs can only be powered one way. So you have to have the + to the + and - to -.
Since i have these, i'll speak up. They make a kit for the LX570. No hacking necessary. If you have an LC, you probably have to do some fabrication. I know there were some threads (maybe this one) detailing some custom brackets that didn't look too complicated to make.
LX 570 Kit (13-15)
LX...
I can't find any info on this Audison AP1 D. The closest thing that comes up is a tweeter. (Edit: nevermind, I see it now..at least sort of) I assume that's not what we are talking about. Audison makes processors, so if that amp has a processor built in, it could be similar to the...
The plug for the light to the sliders comes out from the body around the B pillar (one on each side). You could disconnect the cable there and put the fuse back in to get the other functionality back. I see you have Metaltech sliders. Did they do anything weird to the wiring when installing...
There’s definitely some threads for replacing the motor. Can follow one of those to get to the motor.
Here’s one.
Thread 'Replaced tailgate motor 2010 LX570'
Replaced tailgate motor 2010 LX570 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/replaced-tailgate-motor-2010-lx570.1254628/
Spent a couple days tooling around Ouachita National Forest. Played mule for a couple buddies on adventure bikes.
Crouch-mode for the W.
First camp site:
Low ater bridge crossing.
Carista or Veepeak. If you use an iPhone, make sure to get a BLE (version of bluetooth) model. I believe the Caristas are all BLE, and some of the Veepeaks are. It's been a little while since i've looked, but i think Androids don't make use of BLE.
Alot of discussion in this thread...