Holy crap this worked! Was super nervous about the process, but with a hot air rework gun it came off after a while. Never done anything like this before. My original ceramic resonator came off in a couple pieces, which never bodes well. I just set the new resonator on top of the board and got...
Thanks everyone for the troubleshooting and info here. Got this done today and fixed the problem exactly as I expected it would thanks to these write-ups. Beck Arnley part worked perfect. I must be a masochist, because I skipped the 27mm wrench and got it off with an 8" crescent. Wasn't too bad...
OP mentioned techstream is showing all doors as closed. I do wonder about a faulty brake or e-brake signal as others have mentioned.
Screenshots of the techstream screen with all the AHC data may be useful for us to review.
I will go clean them off sometime when I have the chance. I have all 4 originals. I think it's the "MUV-xxx" numbers but not certain either just glancing at that photo.
After redoing my original globes at 213k this past weekend, I got to thinking about really high mileage 100s still rocking AHC. I realize mine is still just nearing it's mid-life crisis.
So wise Mudders, who has stories to tell of their high-mileage AHC and its amazing longevity? Any particular...
More data. Did my own globes yesterday, got new ones form Impex Japan. Old ones were original from 2000. How do I know? Becuase Toyota makes very high quality stickers that have survived my mudding, submersion, and God-knows-what else:
Looks like they aren't putting stickers with dates on...
Was going to say the same, holding the brake stalls the process just like opening a door. So if the booster is out and there is an issue with the brake signal, AHC won't go up/down, even if otherwise in proper working condition.
Love your quick summary and thanks for the bushing part numbers. Just did this over the weekend. I would say I got moderate improvement, I think the most benefit out of the new bushings and cushions. My globes were original from 2000 with 210k+ miles on them, but still gave 10-12 gradations on...
I think all that makes a lot of sense. I thought about the Japan 4x4 spacers as well, but ended up keeping things fully stock from an AHC standpoint (minus King Springs, I guess that’s not stock).
Primary reason being that using an override switch to keep the truck in “low” at driving speeds...
That looks like it was possibly installed wrong by whomever did the last windshield on your truck. Up there it is glued down. Along the windshield edge, there should be 4 rivets holding it in (underneath a secondary plastic molding that covers the rivets).
Not uncommon for this to be done...
I would definitely vote for removing the entire AHC shock if you're going to be doing globes and therefore a bleed anyway. Assuming you're not too rusted out, I think it's work the extra few buck and time.
C1711 is front right sensor as you're troubleshooting. Often, cheap sensors don't fix the issue. OEM or Aisin full sensor/arm units are the most reliable way to replace.
C1776 is a wheel speed sensor issues it seems. May be related and resolve with a new height sensor in place per some reports...
Just looked through my diagnostics files. The 2000.8+ models with the triangle connector show different values: 1.48-1.85V with the car running. Try that!
EDIT: see my next post. I think I found the something simple we were missing…
Sounds like you’re doing it right: apply voltage to 3 and 1, measure voltage at 2 and 1. You’re applying it to the sensor itself and not the connector from the harness, yes?
No idea why all 3 systems you have would...
Like your note on lubing the adjuster arms. I may look into doing that.
The problem obviously sounds electrical, as you allude to, and your interest in the +B voltage makes sense from that standpoint. something seems to be telling the AHC ECU there isn’t enough voltage to run things properly...