That is actually a great idea, and yes, that is a real possibility. a new consideration I have is that I might want to take this time to regear, which would then put me back into the 27 spline pinion.
The more I work on this FJ, the more I learn that you cannot tackle one project without...
Searching for the pinion flanges today, I'm seeing multiple sites selling 27 spline pinion flanges for the early-68 (cruiserteq, fjparts, sor.....). So just to be safe I'm going to pull the flange I have off to make sure I order the correct one.
A new flange looks to be about $50 which seems pretty nice, especially since I initially thought changing that flange required pulling a whole bunch of parts apart. I can do the driveshaft combo if necessary, but from my google searches, I'm gonna drop at least a few hundred for the '76 era used...
Cruiser Outfitters lists two different parts numbers for the early-74, and the 74-84 u-joints. My concern is that they are different sizes and the newer flange will not fit on the earlier u-joint. That would definitely be the cheaper of the two options. Probably worth just ordering the part and...
I have read through multiple threads on here but have yet to find an answer. I put a front axle from a '76 40 into my '66. I did not know until yesterday they had different bolt pattern... now I know. What I'm curious is if anyone knows if I can just replace the front flange on my original...
Made some good progress in the last few weeks. Finally welded a patch over the cowl vent. The underside around the drains was rusted out and I didn’t want to deal with rebuilding it. Plus with AC there is really no reason for it outside of the original look and nostalgia.
I also got the new...
I installed the AC condenser onto the radiator bracket and was able to move the bracket forward about an inch. I had to cut off the screws that hold the screen on the back of the bib. The screen was already cut by a PO so I will make a new one and make a new attachment for it. Going to trailer...
8 months of working way too much overtime later and I finally got back to working on my vehicle. My mechanic was worried that the 4bt will vibrate too much with transmission mount cushions being on the outside and not centered. So we fabricated a new mounting system using the “original”...
Rear crossmember is put back in about 6 inches further back. The frame flexed out when the bar was initially removed, so a large framing clamp was used to pull it back into spec before new welds were done. Mechanic should be coming by this week to sign off on placement of rear transmission mount...
Welded patches into the holes to both clean up the frame and make a surface to weld the perches on for the transfer case mount. Took our measurements for engine angle and made the mounts about as permanent as the could ever be. Then put some gussets into them for strength.
Pulled the engine back out of the bay and took the body off the frame. Then I connected the engine to the trans/tc and dropped it into the frame knowing where it was going to sit. I had already done the measurements and knew the crossmember at the back was going to be too close. Decided to cut...
I then went to the factory motor mounts and coerced them to pop off the frame. Their angle was about 30 degrees and I needed 45. Just took a slice out of them, warmed them up and pushed them to 45 and welded them back up. Put the mounts back on the motor and dropped it back into the engine bay...
After I got my primer on I picked up my 4bt. Have not had it cleaned up and rebuilt yet, but wanted to start working on placement and mounts. Hung it in the engine bay to get some height and length measurements. Realized the stock springs and ride height were not going to work so beefed up with...