That is true, it would be satisfying to actually get this truck running. I'm also moving across the state so I was thinking about just selling it beforehand but maybe I'll have it shipped over there and then work on finding someone to help with it.
Now I've got something to think about...
I bought this 1976 FJ40 a couple years ago. It was running at the time but needed valve stem seals. I started the engine work, had the head rebuilt by Cameron at Mosley motors. Then I basically ran of of free time for it. Now I have health issues limiting the work I can do on it.
I'm thinking...
There is a shield protecting the vent on the valve cover, not sure exactly what it's called since I can't find the part anywhere. The shield is bent and the plastic gasket was disintegrating.
Do you guys think I'm ok to just bend it back and use something like permatex? Or is there somewhere I...
The PCV valve had some oil in it, I'm not sure how to test it without being able to start the engine though?
I wonder if this was the original problem? If the PCV valve failed it would cause that oil build-up, which could increase pressure and cause the valve seals to fail? Maybe?
Here are...
I'm finally able to get back to this project!
I've been working on removing the head but noticed a couple things when I removed the valve cover.
It looks like there is a missing rocker stand bolt and excessive oil buildup? It doesn't seem as clean as some videos I've seen but I'm figuring...
I need to do some more research on how to do that, but so far it seems like I can do it without pulling the head. I found this thread Valve Stem Seal Question where they recommend a later year seal/seat combo (SOR-P/N 050-05D-L) is that still the way to go?
Yes! That is actually what started me down this path. It smokes A LOT on startup, but then settles down after 3-5 minutes. The smoke isn't blue or sweet smelling, as far as I can tell.
I just finished a dry/wet compression test on my FJ, I'd appreciate any help interpreting the results.
I warmed up the engine, removed all plugs and the ignition wire, kept the throttle fully open and cranked the engine for 6 turns.
Dry/Wet numbers:
1) 140/160
2) 130/155
3) 140/155
4) 145/160...
I'm working on replacing the cowl vent with a solid stainless version from SOR but the old clips are broken and had much larger screws. I'm not sure if that is from PO or OEM but the new stainless screws I got from SOR won't work.
Any idea where I can get some new screw clips (or whatever they...
Haha, yeah I don't get too many cool mornings. I'm definitely planning on removing the rear heater :)
I can fix just about anything with a keyboard attached, but I'm definitely out of my comfort zone with engines. I'm excited to learn though and so far this forum has been awesome. Really...
Thanks, that sounds like a good plan. I've never done a tune up, ready to give it a shot though :)
The engine compartment doesn't seem terrible but I'm no expert. Here are some pics
p.s. I was already told to strap down that battery, probably going to put a dual battery tray in there.
Originally I thought the head gasket was blown on my 1976 FJ40 because of all the white smoke it blows on startup and because there was a new head gasket in the back seat when I bought it :rofl: The idle is also not right, and I always have to keep it 1/4 choke or it dies.
Today I tried a block...
lol, yeah I'm sure. I suspected it was repainted, the badge location (and wheels) is the first thing that made me suspicious. That's fine though, I'm just having fun with it :)
Definitely, I'm sure there is a lot more non oem than I've noticed so far. I was referring to the emblems specifically on that, I just think oem looks nicer than the black/red mine is. I do want to keep it OEM-ish but there will be aftermarket for sure.