Parts available currently for sale:
Fuel Sender Assemblies: Two complete units and one gauge level only(plastic floater has movement and would need to be fixed in place(glue or hardware). Used takeoffs, not tested.
Lower Bumper Grill - #53113-60010: Left and Right in used takeoff condition...
Apologies for the delay been busy with the holidays.. Dealt with idle problems on my truck. Tried three AFMs; no luck. Engine shut-off issue fixed, but rough idle persisted. Local mechanic switched O2 sensors and coolant temperature sensor. Now, smooth start, idle, and run.
Quick update: Unwrapped some extra heat tape from the AFM harness and found a cut 7-wire (green/yellow) plus a barely hanging on 6-wire (green). Checking things out further along the harness. Patched up the cut cables for now.
Swapped in a junkyard AFM, no more diagnostic code 24. Truck fires...
NO CEL in on position.
Thanks for the tip! I’ve been using the 96 manual this whole time because that’s all I’ve had access to. I didn’t know 94 was reuploaded to resources.
I took out the plastic intake hose, gave it a thorough inspection – all good, still in mint condition with no cracks.
Next, I removed the AFM and soldered the points. Put everything back in the vehicle, but now I'm facing a crank-no-start situation. Not sure what I did to make it worse?
Happy...
Yeah, I removed it.
Tried to start up again this morning with no luck. Got code 24. Going to remove the plastic intake hose and inspect it under the light, also going to take the cover off the air flow meter to see if the points have a weak solder or are disconnected.
How many pins should the...
I jumped TE1 and E1 cause I figured why not see if any codes were thrown. Turned the key to full on/start and the truck fired right up and stayed on.
I also unplugged and reinserted the relay before doing that. So it could’ve been loose or something.
Thank you for the extended explanation. If I experience any further issues I’m going to definitely refer back to your post. As for the intake hose, I replaced it with a new OEM one within the last year. Inspected it initially and didn’t notice any cracks.
Again, thank you and everyone else who...
UPDATE: I don’t know what I even did but it’s started and running again with no issues jumping the diagnostic ports(planned on checking codes) with a paper clip. Also unplugged and plugged the COR back in(might’ve been loose or something, no idea)
About the connector, I planned on changing that...
I haven’t done any kind of service around the AFM lately. The harness connecting to the AFM is kind of loose due to broken tabs. I’ve had someone hold it in place while cranking and it didn’t help.
Thanks for the insight. I'm not great with electronics, so if you could break it down in simpler terms, that would be super helpful. Sorry for my lack of understanding.
So you're saying I should check something regarding the primary coil?
EDIT: Just went through the FSM now. All I could find...
Experiencing a problem with my 80 – it shuts off right after starting. Key in, engine starts, RPMs rise, then drop within 2-3 seconds. Explored potential issues; leaning towards the Air Flow Meter. Checked EFI Main relay and fuel pump resistor – both seem to be good. Noticed the car stays...
I have no idea. There’s no identifying model number or anything that I can look up.
They came with the car from the previous owner that was running stock tire size.