Ah don't worry about it, I got my unit sealed up with a bit of rtv, no issues here. Once I fixed all the vac leaks and changed the plugs,it started running about 95% better, still get some idle hiccups once in a while though. I am so sick of this engine lol. The day I swap this engine will be a...
Also finding this repair manual was very helpful to keep me level headed. it is nice to just see what Mr T says to do and go step by step. It's for 1988 but not much changed between then and 91 as far as the 3fe.
https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/8411758/3fe-repair-manual
Final update. Hopefully lmao.
So next step was a conpression test. This would rule out a. Me botching the last valve adjustment, or b. Some kind of internal engine damage that may have occurred from the engine detonating like a broken piston ringland. I was suprised I actually had some pretty...
Yes I have done both of those and they both tested ok. But there's no harm in testing again. Another thing I'd like to do is do these tests on the ecu side so I can test the wiring, rather than just testing the devices themselves
Time for an update. I fixed the truthfully very minor vacuum leaks that were coming from the pushrod cover and the idle speed control valve. A little bit of rtv on the o ring and a dab of jb weld on a crack in the body of the valve ultimatley took care of that, the pushrod cover is kind of a...
Nothing in there about the big o ring, you can see it in the pics though it does look to be the same size roughly. Maybe ill find a part # for that one. funny how toyota made the isc valve so much higher quality on the 1fz, with the nice metal plate and all. mines all plastic and the mating...
For some reason toyota doesn't break it down in their diagram, but its the oring you will have exposed if you remove the 3 small Philips/jis head screws
I owe this thread an update. The approve mentioned leak was fixed, but this was NOT the end of it. I borrowed my buddies machine again to look for more leaks, and I found 2 more. 1 was coming from the pushrod cover gasket, the other from the idle speed control valve oring. I removed the isc...
UPDATE: Well we can pretty much consider this solved. Long story short I underestimated the need for strong air pressure behind an intake smoke test. My coworker is a Saint and let me borrow his snap on uv dye smoke tester. Naturally, as it's a $1600 state of the art tool vs my previous homade...
Huh, I figured it'd be impossible to spin the adjustment screw while the rocker is moving, maybe I'm overthinking it. I think I I it pretty good as the engine is fairly quiet but I'll have to try this next time.
Sorry not sure what you mean exactly by adjusting with it running? I shut the engine down, set to btdc, adjust, rotate 360 adjust, done. How would you literally be able to adjust the rockers while they're moving up and down? I though the point of this was to have the engine as hot as possible...
I adjusted them because it's been 10k miles since I did it last, but I felt I should do it early just to rule out a bad adjustment. They were a bit loud and it quieted the engine down, but ultimately it ran the same before and after. I did it with the engine running without the cover, then once...
It is a random misfire at idle, sometimes it runs smooth but it randomly stumbles. At part throttle low rpm it'll do it too, but the lower the rpms the more it acts up. If you floor it and let the engine rev out, it runs strong on all cylinders all the way to redline. Engine temp has no effect...
This I've already tried to no avail. I much prefer the smoke method. I'm building a new smoke tester out of an ecig, hopefully it will be more effective than my old soldering iron mineral oil tester