I'm checking compatibility with my 5.7 TPI from an '87 Firebird Tans Am GTA, but can't find the part number 51060. It might be outdated. WIX has that number, and these appear to be manufactured by WIX. It's not the exact match for my motor, but the only differences are height and burst pressure...
I need to replace the T-case seal, but not rebuild the parking brake as it was just done. How much of the parking brake do you have to take apart to get to the seal behind it? Can you just slide the brake off as a whole?
It does take a little effort to move the shifter between gears, but I thought that was normal. It's the only 700R4 I've owned. Will certainly take a careful look at the areas you mentioned for the internal shift-linkage.
It doesn't kickdown, but I assumed that was due to the kickdown cable not...
Yeah, I bought it this way, but I couldn’t see the notch until I dropped the front driveshaft. I thought it just needed a new pan gasket before that. It leaks too much.
I’m thinking a new pan could be beaten upwards to mate with the notched trans body. Hoping there’s enough clearance for that...
My '72 FJ40 has a 350/700R4 swap with Advanced Adapters parts. The trans pan was notched to make room for the front U joint, but it was notched too much and it leaks. I'm not sure how to solve this. AA discusses this in their instructions: 3. Toyota L/C Twin Sticks & Front Drive Shaft Kits -...
Pulling the handle out a little while turning the key back to vertical did the trick. Definitely primitive. But, mine locks turning counter-clockwise, and unlocks clockwise. The groove that the little arm fits into in the handle to lock it is on top of the handle, so the only way it can lock is...
I bought an OEM rear hatch lock from CCOT for my '72. I can't figure out how it's supposed to work. The key can only be inserted/pull out when it's unlocked and the key is vertical. When I twist it 90 degrees CCW and the little arm moves into place in the handle to lock it, which seems to be how...