Nice tires, thinking about getting the same.
Just make sure your torque converter is locked in OD so you don't get unnecessary heat build up in the tranny and wear things a little quicker.. May be worth while running OD off, in 3rd gear, so the TC stays locked.
I like mine in my LX, but it is not "seamless or transparent" in the snow as some say. I can kick out the rear end easily, CDL locked or not, without hesitation. Not a horrible thing, but just something to be aware of. BTW, I've not had it "unload" on me like some others may.
Those middle row seats are too damn heavy and I don't want to put them back in. I am thinking of some kind of smaller, lighter back seat like one out of a wrangler or something that folds flat.
Yes. The u-joints didn't like the new angles. Even with new u-joints installed, I had the growling still, necessitating a DC shaft.
I may be misunderstanding this, but If you get the pinion angle back to stock, you will have changed your caster, reducing it, by lowering the pinion angle...
Here is the soft top. It could have come out better I thought, but there were numerous angles and corners that the guy had to work with. He used a very heavy-duty material, and the window material is very optically clear. I have used stick-on auto weatherstripping to make it virtually...
1) I used an angle grinder with a cutoff disk. I only used a sawzall when I had to cut thru the triple-wall rear vertical pillar (there are 3 vertical walls, like a sandwich. The cut is right behind a structural cross bar.
2) I didn't pull the headliner. I dropped it down a little after...
I had to on both of mine. The 80 has 5"+ lift, no weight, and the LX did after adding caster plates at 3". My growling/vibes started not until sometime later. Give it time.
Here is mine. I will post the lastest pick tomorrow when I have me camera, with the snap-on cover, the crossbars with the Wilderness rack. I am almost finished. I need to finish up on the sealing up of the rear pillar. I used expanded foam and fiberglass resin.
Stock springs in the rear have...
remove one shaft at a time to isolate. What caster correction did you use? A DC front shaft usually requires more caster correction than bushings will provide, ie pinion pointed to the transfer case (0 degree operating angle of the U joint at the pinion).
Many threads on this. Nay and I have done this at altitude. Just keep the OD off so the torque converter stays locked, to prolong the life of the tranny by keeping the heat down from slippage.
It is not bad running 35's with stock gears. I would not do it permanently, though.
Agreed on the Toyota solution. I have 2 DC front shafts made from the larger DC sections of Tacoma shafts I personally sourced from salvage yards and had retubed from a reputable driveline shop. Both of these shafts are running on each vehicle with slee castor plates with zero issues.
The...