Wow it’s been awhile since I’ve updated this thread. Things I’ve done in the meantime:
-TB/WP
-Ironman awning + room
-Ironman front bumper with Badlands Apex winch
Decided it wasn’t worth the effort to build the front bumper. We’ve moved once, I changed jobs, DIY renovated our house in the last...
Did a deeper water crossing and my starter stopped working. Had a couple of times in the past 2 years where it intermittently didn’t crank the 1st try, so I suspect it was on its way out already. Changed this out on the side of the street...solid 4-5hour job 😬
I had the exact same issue actually, ended up chasing the threads to clean out the gunk and rust in there. I believe Autozone had a crappy rental tap/die set that sort of worked, I would use a better quality set if you have access to one.
I run a mis matched spare as well (315/75/16 vs 275/75/17) with the thought that this would be at most a 50-mile patch until I get to a place to get a new tire. Probably just fine unless you keep the center diff locked and do long distance trips away from civilization
I don’t have any pictures but essentially plated another piece of 10-gauge around the base of each swingout hinge to minimize flex, also random gussets on the wings to prevent sagging.
I would definitely use both latches, the spring-loaded one helps a lot to keep the arm in place (side to...
I created a template (cardboard) that used the factory tow hitch and recovery point bolts, then made it to shape with 1/4” steel, no additional drilling of the frame needed.
The shell is 10-gauge, in between 3/16 (too heavy IMO) and 1/8” (too flimsy). I had to add additional gussets to support...
Has anyone actually measured the factory shock length? I thought previous threads had an additional ~1” or so of extended shock length for most aftermarket “lift” options, so naturally I was planning to save up for a set of foam cells to upgrade my worn factory shocks with OME 860’s. If what you...
Personally I would continue to use the truck for its intended purpose (your intended purpose when you dropped $20k on it). Judging from the pictures it looks like a wheeling/family hauler/IDGAF rig.
You’ll never be able to recoup the money you already spent, in addition to probably beating up...
Has anyone gotten away with using generic coolant tubing and cutting to length themselves?
Seems awfully expensive for a piece of tubing from the dealer. I’m tackling the same project soon on my rig.
Even if you were to build the motor, how would you handle engine management? A proper tune would probably net the same power gains.
To be honest though the biggest reason why many people like these rigs is the reliability aspect, so a built motor accomplishes the opposite of one of the shining...
I (along with several other members) have gotten away with replacing just the inner seal and O-ring (don’t need a press to do) if the bearing is in decent shape.
I did a 6 hour wash/clay/compound/polish/seal/wax on my rig last year. We have quality paint on the 100-series and it looked absolutely amazing. A week later I went on a last-minute wheeling trip and reversed all my hard work.
I just embrace the pin striping now 😂