Just to complete the story, the shock absorber is an aftermarket unit for an Axial Yeti.
With the geometry of the brackets I made, I needed a shock/damper 120mm eye-eye, with 40mm stroke to still get full travel of the throttle lever.
It was a bit of mucking around, but well worth it.
The lower connection is a piece of 1.2mm plate, bent around into a U shape to make the clevis for the lower shock mount. It is tack welded to the throttle lever, and my aftermarket ball joint stud is also bolted through it.
It extends the throttle lever by about 10mm to keep the bottom shock...
That piece of 25mm x 25mm hollow section provided me with the perfect spot to mount a bracket for the RC car shock absorber.
I just made the bracket from some more hollow section - two pieces back to back to make a clevis for the top shock mount - and welded it on.
Okay. First things first, I extended the standard 12HT throttle cable bracket so it reached down further towards the throttle lever on the pump. This allowed me to use the 2H throttle cable without having to extend it (simply cut the fitting off the end and secure it into an aftermarket ball...
Hey team, just thought it might be worth sharing this. I drew from your collective wisdom and odingski’s suggestion of an RC car damper and installed this today.
It works brilliantly. Provides just the right amount of damping on both opening and closing the throttle. No more kangaroo hopping...
Thanks CenTX. I’d appreciate that.
Those lights you mention are controlled by the port on the boost/pressure side of the turbo which also feeds a signal to the boost compensator on the injection pump.
This port is on the turbo suction side pipe though.
Thanks mate, I know that one too, but it comes from the high pressure side of the turbo on the crossover pipe, not the suction side, and runs to the injection pump to fuel her up when on boost.
Thanks Earwigg. I thought I had that one sorted. Vacuum line from vac pump on back of alternator to the temp sensor (exactly where you say it is) and on to one of the the idle-up diaphragms.
Unfortunately, this isn’t really a vacuum port as it’s on the inlet side to the turbo. It will see a...
G’day team.
I’m in need of some advice please. I’m about to put a 12HT into our 60 Series to replace the tired 2H. Thanks to this forum, and your collective experiences, I think I’m across most of the conversion aspects. But there’s one item I’m uncertain about - a small tube which protrudes...
G’day team.
I’m in need of some advice please. I’m about to put a 12HT into our 60 Series to replace the tired 2H. Thanks to this forum, and your collective experiences, I think I’m across most of the conversion aspects. But there’s one item I’m uncertain about - a small tube which protrudes...
Hey coldtaco. Thanks for sharing that solution. You’ve opened up a train of thought I hadn’t considered.
I like your custom throttle cable too. Is that the Lokar S1034 end on it?
Hi ozcruiser. Just preparing a 12HT to fit to our 60 Series and was very pleased to find your thread.
I’m planning on following your wiring advice above but wanted to check if yours is still working okay four years down the track?
Interesting. I just bought a 12HT import engine (ex Japan) and it has exactly the same cover over the sump, plus black foam insulation pads between the oil cooler and the inlet manifold.
must be a cold climate spec, or maybe even an emergency services spec? I can’t find the parts listed...
For the bolt, I’d try filing a flat on the shank that’s sticking out, centre punching it, then try drilling it out and using an easy-out or re-tapping the thread. Some easy-out kits come with left handed drills and you find that when drilling the hole, the bolt comes out anyway.
For the...
Hi Chocco,
I have a similar issue on an HJ45 project ute. I need new spring plates but am struggling to find anything other than 75 Series plates.
Did you get it sorted for your rig?
Cheers