Sweet! I'm about to begin a body off restomod on my 40.
I think you and I are about it around here.... although, one of the guys I work with told me today that he saw a Land Cruiser meet up of some kind up near Pembroke? I dunno.
DM me if you want.
This is why I like this forum. Thank you for the lesson.
Seeing as good sway bar setups are expensive, having to do a front and rear is likely more than I care to spend at the moment. I suppose I'll just live with the light body sway for now, until I can get my new shop built and get the...
Thanks!
The obvious answer is to tune my suspension. But I'm still in the process of moving and finding a house, so until I get a place and build a garage... a mostly bolt on (possibly welded a little) part is the easy button.
I want to put a rear, removable sway bar on the rear end of my pickup.
On the straight flat roads of Texas, my lifted modified truck was fine at "highway speeds" (55-65mph). But I've since moved back to the backwoods of Virginia, and these not so flat, not so straight roads give me a bit of...
The DUI allows for a .055 gap if I remember correctly. I would imagine that the pertronix allows for a similarly large gap.
Start them at .045 and see what that gets you.
Look at the wiring diagram.
My money says you have an open or über high resistance on the ground for the low beams
Its unlikely that both headlight bulbs went out at the same
Yeah. I dunno what it is lately, but fuel pumps and related components seem to not last as long. Maybe it's the ethanol in the gas?
The pump on my FJ40 went out recently too, but I'm holding off on that repair at the moment. We're moving back to VA in a few months, so I might just strip it...
Check your fuel pressure. My truck was having similar issues, and it turned out to be the fuel pump.
It would heat up during use, and the pressure would drop enough to mimick the symptoms of a bad TPS.
The fuel pump.
As it would heat up, the pressure would drop from normal to about 20psi and stay there. I hooked up the pressure tester, started the engine and watch it for about 15 minutes. I originally missed it because when I tested it the first time, the pressure seemed normal
I'm a little...
I found a disconnected vacuum line... looks like it's been that way for a while?
It's connected to the 3rd (bottom) position on the vacuum tree at the back of the head near the EGR valve, but I can't determine where its supposed to be routed too after the tree.
I can't seem to figure it out...
So as soon as I nudge the throttle, it should go OL, got it.
I'll finish tuning it up tomorrow. I got the distributor reset and the timing done correctly. The truck is no longer idling funny or trying to die... just the throttle is a little off.
I appreciate all the help.
Can you explain your TPS adjustment technique? I got the engine running smoothly now, but the engine bogs down when I blip the throttle real quick. If I roll the throttle slowly and smoothly, the engine accelerates smoothly.
It's not that I'm worried about it, so much as I just don't know what else to do Haha! I'll reset the dizzy because I've got it apart and the engine set properly. Might as well, maybe I screwed it up the first time. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
No.1 cylinder set to TDC and this is the position of my dizzy. I haven't moved it. Does it look right to you?
Also, the FSM says to set to TDC, and then adjust the notch on the crankshaft pulley to the 5° or 10° or something like that. Should I just leave it at TDC and go from there? Or follow...