Trail Gear 's tech assist rep said it's OK for the locking ring's tab to move in the spindle groove as long as I was sure it would stay in the groove. He also said I could MIG weld a little extra material to the tab, then file it for an exact fit if I couldn't stand the slop. So that's what I...
Yep, thanks. What I called the "loose/safe" side (safe meaning no additional bearing preload) is the outward most travel you describe.
It still bugs me - I don't think I've ever left a wheel bearing as "done" that had a locking system with this kind of inherent play. I'll call TG tomorrow...
I'm installing the TG Chromoly Spindle Nut Kit (300519-KIT) now. Should the goal be a fully locked/immobilized spindle nut? Instructions do not address this.
The lock ring's tab is narrower than its spindle groove, so once everything is screwed together the spindle nut/lock ring assembly can...
I just installed a B&M 70274 for the same reasons. It's their biggest, and the third B&M cooler I've used - no issues. This was part of an overall refresh/update that began with a complete A/C replacement, the Wit's End Orange fan clutch, a new "original" 8 blade fan and the updated shroud...
Instead of replacing the idler pulley (Gates 38020), I just replaced the bearing with a Nachi 6203-2NSE. Made in Japan for high speed pumps. Two from Amazon for about $10. Unfortunately it's OD is too large to also fit in the plastic grooved serpentine idler pully.
Thanks inkpot - big help. Yes, I have the "Tools" serp belt wrench from Wit's End - most excellent. I'm installing their Orange Hub clutch and an original fan now.
Is the S/C tensioner pulley reverse (left hand) thread, or conventional right hand (righty-tighty)?
I'm planning to install a Gates 38020 pulley and don't want to goon up this NLA assembly.
Searched, but no joy.
Thanks in advance, BigMac
Check the spare for age & proper inflation. I'd need a 55 gallon drum full of $100 bills for gas on a trip like that.
Best wishes for an epic adventure.
Yes, please advise if the LSPV does the trick - it's the only brake component I have not replaced (OK, still have the stock ABS sensors & pump) and my brakes are not as "crisp" as they should be. Thanks.
Thanks guys for getting the Cruiser ball rolling again on the Central Coast. I'll have to try and catch up in a few months - right now I'm in the middle of having both knees replaced, so there's not much but rehab in my immediate future. Mack
Buy a new drain plug when you buy the seal washer - have the new assembly ready when the old plug drops out. There is always a "most expensive route", and I'm usually on it. Mack
Great, just great. One more item for the "hate" column in my love/hate relationship with CA. My truck is up for testing this year, so today I'll go by the station I always use and look for the big red star. The irony of such a symbol is obviously lost on our fearless leaders in Sacramento...
Jon - Sounds like a wrist pin/bushing issue, not a "big end" connecting rod bearing issue. IMHO, tighter is way better than loose on that end - a freely "flopping" piston can mean a poor wrist pin fit, which will quickly result in a lot of noise, and ultimately, failure. Don't be in a rush to...
In terms of bang for the buck, replacing the engine harness will be the best money you ever spent - assuming the 3FE harness price is in line with the 1FZFE's - the all-time OEM bargain.
I guess it's worth learning a lesson like this to have the truck running so well as it is now - it has "learned" the new MAF well and is staying in closed loop much more than with the MAF I was cleaning when I let the rag get sucked in. Previously, on every acceleration from a stop it would go...
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