Local Lexus dealer in Houston. That’s the list price. You may be confusing this pump+accumulator+wire assembly for the larger assembly that includes the master cylinder, reservoir, etc.
My brakes are fixed.
OEM Brake Booster Pump Assembly - $1,004
Charge for Expedited Delivery - $163 (otherwise dealer said 10-12 days)
Brake Fluid - $5
Installation - $225 (Indie shop)
Sales Tax - $83
Total Repair Cost - $1,480
Plus another $102 to have vehicle towed to the shop.
The codes that...
Good info, 2001LC. Definitely no noise right now. I had the hood open and the driver’s window down.
On the topic of noise though...
As long as I have owned this vehicle, I’ve always heard a low level humming/mechanical type noise whenever the engine is off and the key is on. Never stopped on...
Just checked. No sound from booster pump. Not sure exactly what it’s supposed to sound like, but didn’t hear anything of note after turning the key to ON.
2001LC-
1. You are welcome to my old parts when they come off.
2. The brake fluid has not been overfilled on my watch. I’m familiar with the filling procedure. Current fluid level is about 3/4 full if the Min line = empty and Max line = full. Pressing the pedal 40 times results in no change in...
Add me to the brake failure list.
2001 LX470. 238k miles. 83k of them by me. Doubt this rig has ever left the pavement. Spent most of its life in Dallas/Houston. Drove 325 miles round trip (Houston to Austin) on Saturday. No issues. The next morning as I’m backing out of my driveway: solid...
I was able to use the Tundra center caps by hammering the dust caps flat plus a little bit of grinding on the back of the center cap. Front wheels only. The center caps went right on the rears with no mods.
My Tundra wheels were brand new takeoffs. Got them for only a shade more than a set of the tires would have cost on their own. I popped the Toyoya logo off the center caps and replaced with a free set of Lexus emblems from my local dealer.
Not exactly.
Marathon owns the ONLY refinery in Michigan. Most of the fuel used in Michigan, regardless of brand, comes from this refinery. So yes, Marathon stations in Michigan are in fact selling Marathon refined fuel, but it's more of a geographical coincidence than some special marathon...
While we are talking about mileage though, there are things besides the obvious (driving style, speed, traffic, etc.) that can affect your MPG from tank to tank.
Summer vs winter fuel standards set by various regulatory bodies.
Air conditioner usage. More AC = less MPG.
Fuel temperature -...
Right and wrong. You won’t notice the difference between regular and premium fuel, but your vehicle absolutely will. Your mileage will be affected. Separate topic though. OP is talking about differences from station to station, not differences in fuel grade.
Gasoline is gasoline. It’s a commodity pure and simple. It’s highly likely that every single gas station in your neighborhood, or every your city/county/region gets its gas from the exact same distribution hub (AKA “The Rack”). The fuel comes to the rack via pipeline directly from a refinery...
I’ve had no start due to both the starter and lose battery cable in my 100. With the battery cable, all dash lights and even the dash itself (headlights too IIRC) went dark as soon as I turned the key. When my starter was dying, all dash lights stayed lit. OP says all,his dash lights are on.
My starter did this for months before I got around to replacing it. Never got stranded. I can see how it would be unnerving in a remote area with family onboard though.
Bought my 2001 LX about four years ago at 158k miles. Now at 228k. Recently added up my receipts and they totaled about $10,000. Rough estimate says I’ve also run through about $13,000 of fuel: 70,000 / 15 mpg x $2.75/gallon.