Hey all, mainly due to another worn suspension thread I'm wondering exactly which parts folks are replacing to refresh the LC200 stabilizer links, front and back. For example, the bushings in the arm for the KDSS damper (16 and 17) are 40 bucks each so I figure it's worth asking what commonly...
I'm at 133K and also wondering about the suspension life. I replaced all of the shocks on my 100 around the same time frame and recall pretty much zero difference, same with my 4R before that. The 200 has always seemed rolly and dive-y, hard to tell what's normal. That said I recently hit a...
Having owned both- by the time my 100 hit 115K miles it had already had a new steering rack, alternator, CV boots, Rust was everywhere in the 100- rear wheel wells, corners of doors, entire underside of body shell and of course frame. Oh and the tailgate gets riddled with it, all around the...
I had that same hit on a 4Runner and while they tried to repair it, the frame had a wrinkle in it that would not come out so they had to total it after spending a ton of time on it and ordering all the parts. The frame ahead of the axle is so vulnerable to side hits like that, unfortunately.
When I made the switch I was really surprised that the 200 carried over zero of the 100 driving feel, it's just 100% different.
That said at the same mileage my 200 has needed nothing and my 100 had a laundry list of mechanical needs and a lot of rust everywhere. The 200 is just substantially...
I don't know why I do this to myself but I took a peek around the engine compartment just to see how things are going since I pretty much never even have to open the hood between oil changes.
Noticed the AC compressor is basically coated with oil, as well as the bottom of the head immediately...
Trick question! If it's a Toyota 4 piston caliper it's most likely frozen and needs replacement anyway!
When they are not frozen, a big channellocks pliers with an old brake pad to keep the pressure even, simply holding the other two back. Doesn't take much.
13-15 LC has soft close windows, heated and cooled front seats, Xenon projectors with adjustable leveling (really cool feature) stock- to answer multiple questions in the thread.
So some long term follow up on here- these slotted and drilled rotors do not work in the rust belt. Just swapped these out for solid rotors and standard pads and it's like a dream in comparison to the grabby pulsating combo of salted drilled/slotted rotors and the TRD pads, good riddance. See...
There are a couple of comments here about 100 vs. 200 series corrosion- make no mistake the 100 series is a million times worse and the body gets really, really bad. That said not structural and even after 140K+ miles and 12 years of salt my 05 LC was always solid, quiet, safe, and smooth. That...
Before I do this- is a radiator replacement DIY needed? I couldn't find one but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough. I'd say this job was a 5/10, kinda a pain to figure out how to do it but I did it without removing the fan or shroud. Radiator was as of today 460 bucks or so with tax from the...
Fantastic post, I did this exact thing and the braking feel is WAY better. The ONLY feedback I'd add is that in the salt belt the salt got a hold of the drill holes in the drilled rotors this winter. Somehow that was a foothold for corrosion and you can still see it, even after a summer of...
Also running these tires and they are fantastic, in my case have put about 15K on them so far. They "look right" on the car which is important, plus they are great in the snow and great on the highway which is what the car is on most of the time. Previously had the Revo2 275s on there and it...
FWIW every fall when I coat the undercarraige with Fluid Film, I lower the spare tire, clean up the whole rim, lube up the spare tire winch/carrier, check the inflation of the spare.
On my previous cruiser, a 100 series, the totally neglected spare was totally flat after 10 years, would not...