I had the same problem a few years ago on a road trip, 100+ degrees outside. It did it probably 10+ times in the span of a few hours of driving. I think it may have just been a bad batch of fuel or something it ended up working itself out. Haven't had the issue again since. So probably not the...
I had this exact thought while sitting at light last week! Looks great. I'd also be interested in one if you make a run. I think a black anodize would look awesome.
Check your battery terminals. I had a similar issue and battery tested good. I was getting ready to replace the starter when I noticed my scangauge was only showing 11v with key on. I decided to check what voltage I was actually getting at the end of the battery terminal. It was like 11v, where...
That is a hell of deal on a used engine. My shop would charge about $4k just for labor. Make sure they aren't cutting any corners. You'll want a new timing belt, water pump, cam/crank seals, and thermostat installed on the used(new) engine at a minimum. This would also be a good time to do spark...
Benzeen Auto Parts out of Rancho Cordova is pretty good. They were formally called Toyota, Lexus, Scion Auto Recyling. I have an engine with 95k out of an 05 Tundra and am located in Modesto if anyone is interested. It dropped a valve seat, so it'll need a head and valve job done to it. I was...
Gary and Mudrak are great! I can't recommend them enough. What he mentioned is very much a possibility, as is foreign material going into the intake like @JunkCrzr89 mentioned.
My 2000 has 226k on original trans. Never had an issue with it. I agree with everyone else that there isn't much of a reason to replace the trans as a preventative measure. I would do a transmission service and inspect it and more than likely call it good unless you see chunks and debris. DO NOT...
Prep is to scuff existing paint with a scotchbrite pad. My paint was really bad and flaking so I had to get sand paper involved and filled a few dents while I was at it. I spent 2 days scuffing and filling dents, 2 days masking and removing lights, door panels, etc, and 1 day to spray 3 coats...
I would pull the front diff, CVs, and driveshaft; lock the center diff so you can still drive around in RWD, and then drive the front diff over to a shop.
Try Valley Hybrids in Stockton. They did my locker installs and were great to work with.
There's also Mudrak in Sonoma. I haven't used them...
I do a lot of "overlanding"/roadtripping/offroading through rural, expansive western states, so I opted for just regular green antifreeze. If I'm ever traveling out in the middle of nowhere, spring a leak, and need to top it off, that stuff is available in any small town. I don't want to have to...
Does anybody have tips on how to remove these? Do they just pull up and out? Mine are peeling too and I figure I'll try painting before I go out and buy new ones.
My cover has been removed for about 3 years and mine still does this. It has to do with the RPMs dropping. When I shift back into neutral or park the rpms rise slightly and the rattle stops. I'm still trying to figure this out...