I have bench bled and have bled the way I'm supposed to. The weird thing is why it still has air in the system. I will re do everything once again today and see what happens
Scratch that I got the residual pressure valve and proportioning valve mixed up. O'Reilly gives no specs on the pressure valve supplied. I have my original master laying around still I'll play around and throw that pressure valve into the new MC see if it does anything different
Hmm not 100% sure what you mean I have the original residual valve in it. The one that sits on the brake booster below the master. Is that what your talking about? Should I order a new one after all it is old? Tomorrow I will be popping off the tires and try adjusting shoes I'll keep you guys...
Replaced the rubber axle hose and rebled but still no cigar have yet to adjust brakes because I know there is still air in the lines somehow. I did go out and buy a vacuum pump for the brakes but it is a suction type and still no avail. I still can't find any leaks did a triple check today...
I have been having a tough time with my brakes for the last 4 months and cannot figure it out. I have a brand new master cylinder from orielly but thought it was that and exchanged it for another one. But the problem still persists. The problem is that the brakes no matter what always have air...
Idles perfect and drives fine only bucks in low rpms. Sounds like a miss almost. Also only bucks when it's in the running temperature area. When it's cold it's fine. Also in neutral it runs perfect. No choke is needed except to start
Hey guys sorru didn't get back I've been loaded down. Anyways seafoamed the car and loaded the carb with cleaner and changed the fuel filter out. Same symptoms as before any thoughts?
Driving on the freeway for the first time in my recently rebuilt motor. Going to college at Sacramento State and took a 4 hour drive to get here. While at a rest stop I noticed the bogging. The car bogs on acceleration but is fine at high rpm that is why I didn't notice it for so long until I...
Alright I got it guys. This conversion cost me right around 200 dollars. I grabbed a cs130 from autozone, it was out of a 1995 saturn sl2. Now the original bracket only needed very minor changes to it. I grinded the top and made it more flush and cut the bracket arm halfway only using the slide...
As I understand 76 77's use a smaller three pin which is similar to the 78'. The 78' has a larger 3 pin connector. I've read using some alternators such as a cs 130 from gm you totally bypass the ampmeter and connect straight to positive
Haven't been able to get my hands on any alternators for a 78 and have decided my only option for higher amperage is to convert to gm. Is there an alternator that fits that bracket nicely and lines up with the belt? I know i may have to shim a little but any options and help is greatly...
You'll need a deep one and yeah your going to want to take your radiator out its not too hard took me about 45min to take out and put back in as I was replacing my fan shroud yesterday.
Just made a new gauge cluster today out of some burl wood and few layers of lacquer. It's looking sweet just wanted to show you guys. My close friend has a woodworking business and we mostly do buckeye so there alot of scraps around. Planning to make a new shift know out of buckeye also
I'm running 1.25" with mine and it's nice but it makes the rubbing worse because they stick out of the fender. I have original fenders with no intention to cut