Ive been using a plywood blade with 60 teeth and it cuts like butter.
Also realizing the goose gear platform uses rivnuts in plywood and the rest of the manufacturers that put tie downs on their platforms and decks… they just bolt them to the plywood. I think Im over thinking the safety...
@Hiluxforever Tying all the d-rings into the seat bolts would surely be the strongest and safest. Not sure how practical it would be however. If you look at my plywood deck with the black plugs, look how far the outside bolts are in from the sides. You’d cut the useable area way down. Good point...
Wrapping up my platform engineering and could use a little help.
I ended up laminating two layers of 1/2" baltic birch with screws and glue. I left recesses for Aluminium L-track and I'm hitting it with the second coat of bed-liner now. I mounted it using the existing M-10x1.25 bolt holes and...
I never touched mine. Didn't mess with the washers at all. No errors, no issues with headlights. If the angle is different, it's so slight I have never noticed it 18 months in. Mine is 2.5 on the lift and I'm on 275/65 so about an inch and quarter lower than yours.
@r2m I hear you on the back aches. Wasn’t calling you out on the maintenance, just reinforcing your comments about the value of doing it yourself when it interests you.
Before I bought this truck I hadn’t turned a wrench since high school.
I probably should have hired someone to change the struts for my lift, instead I spent three days struggling through it. But that gave me the skills to replaced my wife's 3rd gen suspension completely a year later. And then...
Time yes. Money no. Im in it $300 and the floor is done less paint. I have most of the wood for the drawers. Drawer sliders and frame material’s probably another $500? Last time I checked Goose gear is charging $900 for just the floor. My dad is retired and builds nice furniture so I should be...
Well, I think you’re almost all in agreement. A it is. That will also allow me to easily swap the center bolts out and add a bracket to connect my T-slot frame to the truck in the center.
Getting the drill press out this morning. Appreciate you guys chiming in.
I was actually thinking about going the same direction as another option, but I was worried that the counter sunk opening would be less strong than the dado opening with a bus washer. That would be a whole lot easier than cutting recesses for bus washers, though…
What do you guys think. Approach A or B? I'm using a .5"x3"x40" aluminum bar across the factory seat anchors to support the plywood and tie other stuff into (future drawers, etc.).
With 'A' It would be easy to recess the bolts into the plywood but then I'd have to deal with the recesses filling...
Did you run a OBD checker to see if it's missing without a persistent code or CE light? Not sure how the drive drain could thump at a stop light when it's not moving.
Does anyone have any resources on how to choose the proper resistor to override the warning lights for various vehicle circuits that have been removed / left open? I’ve had my rear 60 seat out about 4 days and Im not getting used to the Christmas tree lights.
Some good advice up there from @Thed351W . The oil maint light in my GX goes off every 5K and that's when I change it. Definitely do the tranny AT LEAST every 100K. I just had it done and it was only $250. Drain and fill is not the same as a flush with the machine that monitors pressure and uses...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.