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I've changed my oil every 3k miles 3 times now with Amsoil Z-Rod 10-40. The 62 just empirically runs better, smoother, quieter on this synthetic, but I got curious about the actual data on the oil. I'll keep updating as I get lab results coming in. I'll follow Blackstone's advice and run my...

I swapped my inline fuses for a regular Blue sea fuse box a few years back without any issues if someone is on the fence.

Gotcha, thanks. When I have my Redarc DC to DC charging my house battery at 25Amps, I'm getting about 13.6V when driving / higher RPM. I hardly ever see numbers above 14V even when batteries are full and no accessories.

Above 14V having all those accessories running at idle is normal? If e.g. 13.6V at idle or higher RPM, would that indicate the voltage regulator going belly up or brushes? or?

First thing to check is the actual voltage of the battery when running and when not running. And the voltage at idle + at 1700rpm. It could be the gauge in the dash, mine acts up sometimes, but I have my actual voltage in an aftermarket gauge cluster to erase doubt. Check the voltage output...

D you have brush kits for the 62 good sir?

Got it, thank you Do you have the 62 versions of these as well? @ToyotaMatt I'm mainly looking to replace the brushes on my alternator, but having a hard time finding those on eBay.

Does anyone know where I could source these? I'd love to replace all of these on my alternator. " if I DIY, here are the parts I'd replace: Front Bearing 6203 Back Bearing 6201 voltage regulator VR-160 brush set JX138 "

Interesting, thank you. Adding that to my spares "trail repair" kit

I put some heat sinks on the igniter module that I had laying around to hopefully have it last a little longer. I don't know If it does anything... The coil is so cheap compared to the module.

Hah that's awesome. I was lucky purchasing one with a fresh trans rebuild as well, bought the 62 for $3k. Biggest cooler you can fit + something like Delvac ATF will make these trans last as long as the rest of the cruiser.

I do find the 62 has quite a different character, driving it, comparing to the 60. To each their own kinda thing. I kinda like the automatic. Its an Achilles heel that is easily fixed with some beefy Derale cooling.

I highly recommend a long range tank. If you do any camping/off roading having e.g. 40 gallons and 400-500 miles range is such peace of mind. Mine uses the OEM fuel pump, but the bracket holding the pump is extended and I installed an aftermarket fuel gauge + sending unit. There are ways to...

Every week/other week I drive my FJ62 offroad, exploring Utah, alone. I just never have issues... hours and hours of corrugations, long mountain climbs, flexing like a sick giraffe in Moab, UT. It just keeps going at almost 300k miles. I do take good care of it though and keep it mostly OEM...

I've been really impressed with the heavy duty fan clutch from @cruiseroutfit this summer in Utah heat, it was defending 205 engine temp like its life was depending on it. Highly recommend that "upgrade" I like to just take off the radiator when doing the water pump... makes its so much...

Is that woodrats causing that in your area? I lived on a farm for years in a forested area and had to leave the hood of the LC open at night.

He replaced the AFM and that solved his stumbling.

Solo weekend trip to clear my head. Capital Reef is my new favorite, what a place to disappear for a bit and explore.

I'm a huge fan of the Z-rod Amsoil 10-40... Yes I leak a tiny bit, but it runs so good. With the tallest Wix 51773.

It kinda sounds like the waterpump is the only thing left.. The fact that when you increase the RPM she cools down quickly could mean the waterpump is maybe rusted out some, or worse if its not a metal pump.