This seems to be a fairly common leak. I have the same deal. I've just been putting up with it. Clean it well and be sure of where its coming from, and check Zane's writeup, its a good one. Definitely a do-able job if you have the tools.
That being said, I've driven 20k on my truck with...
Keep in mind though, if you do decide that you want lockers, the search can be rather difficult. I don't think I'm the only mudder on here who is constantly checking the papers and autotrader's looking for locked rigs. I've been searching for the 'perfect low mileage locked LX' for around 6...
For the rear flares there are nuts, I believe two on both sides, that can only be reached by removing the panels on the interior of the truck. Screws that thread through the flare, into the body, and a nut that is reached from the interior of the vehicle.
If you don't mind destroying your...
Hey And517 and welcome. You'll find most guys here either pull the flares off, or stick with the factory ones. As far as I know, I haven't seen any manufactures of after market flares.
Did you check on top of the spare tire, or around the exhaust? Any place pranksters could stash something that would smell the truck up.
Throwing a salmon carcass on top of the spare tire of a friend's truck makes for an excellent prank. Not that I know anything about that.
:cheers:
The factory racks are flimsy and often times rusted out. Gutter mounts are much much stronger! Here's my thread on removing my factory rack...I believe there's more info in the FAQ about pulling the factory rack off too. Its suprisingly flimsy, with just a couple nutserts through sheet metal...
I just did the fronts, and the calipers. Some pics showing the pad removal and all if you are interested...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=168397
I have never heard of a gasket not fitting correctly because of high mileage...but I could be wrong. Its a high mileage vehicle right, they are supposed to leak ;)!
I had the dealer replace my rotors and pads. What you are seeing is new rotors and pads, driven on maybe 200 miles, while I was waiting for my new calipers to arrive. The marks you see on the rotors are fairly superficial, but are likely the result of my caliper pistons sticking and rubbing on...
If I remember right, they were somewhere around $100 each. If your calipers are in good shape, you can return the cores back to Toyota and get $20 back or so. I don't know the exact numbers, maybe CDan'll chime in.
Did you get brand new ones, or the remanufactured? If I remember right, the remanufacturs were substantially cheaper than the new. I didn't get new pins and springs for them either, just reused my old stuff.
I bled the brakes using a 'pump the brake pedal assistant'. I took the opportunity to replace all my fluid as well at this time. It was about the color and consistency of maple syrup, and pumped it until it came clean and clear. Because I replaced the calipers, and they had a lot of air in...
After the brake line and the two bolts are removed, the caliper slides right off the rotor. The dealership guys were right, and the pistons in my old caliper were very sticky, and a couple wouldn't move at all. I cleaned things up a bit, then bolted the new caliper right on. Replaced the...
Up next is removing the caliper itself. There are two bolts which hold the caliper in place. They are shown in the below picture. You will also need to remove the brake line to the caliper itself, which is held in by the third bolt pointed to. Its handy to have a 3" extension to get the...
"Looking at the rotor, the brake caliper is on the left. Get a good light and examine the back side (left) of the brake caliper. You will see a thin little bent wire clip holding 2 guide pins (each pin approximately 4" long) that hold the pads in. Do not pull the clip out of the guide pins just...
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